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Old 10-14-2006, 11:52 PM
Stuke Sowle's Avatar
Stuke Sowle Stuke Sowle is offline
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DML Jagdtiger (Premium Edition)

No, this is not a figment of your imagination. I am actually posting something on my vBench for the first time in probably six months. While I have been building a few kits during that time, I have not been taking pictures of the builds. It seems I have had the energy to build but not paint or document my progress lately.

I hope to change that with this kit. It is the pretty much the same older Jagdtiger kit (which isn't too shabby) with some new additions. The roadwheels are much better defined then the older kit. It includes a mammoth metal barrel, PE screens and tie downs, metal tow hooks, braided wire for the tow cables, some ammo and well..I think that's about it.

Now I must start by saying I took at least dozen pictures showing the process I have started to get very use to with individual track links. Frequently I read threads started by frustrated modellers lamenting indy track links or how Dragon's Magic Tracks are not so magic. I DO NOT fall into this category. I love 'em! No snipping, clipping, blah blah blah. Just open the bag and go. Anyway, I digress. I had these photos to post here of my process using this kit as a guide. Much to my dismay my memory card in my digital camera got re-formated and I lost the photos!

So I will have to show just the after pictures, but prove that it can be done so that the tracks can be assembled and then removed for ease of painting. Here are the shots of the tracks on the RHS of the tank. I really tried to simulate the position of the tracks as the vehicle moves forward. With the treads not really touching the first few roadwheels when a tank begins it's forward momentum.



A better shot:



Now the shots of the track removed:





My process (in words unfortunately) is pretty simple. I attach the roadwheels, idlers and sprockets to the suspension sans glue. If I am having difficulty getting them to stay while handling the model then I will use some liquid poly sparingly so that they can be pulled off.

I then use a section of Tamiya masking tape and place it around the roadwheels, etc to get a rough estimate of the length of track needed. You do not want to come up short half-way through the process. I then lay the masking tape down on the surface of my workbench and begin to put the tracks together. With the Magic Tracks there is enough friction that the tracks hold together pretty well and I can assemble the entire run before using any glue.








When the run is together (matching the length of the tape) I then apply Tamiya extra thin cement to the links. I allow this to try for about twenty minutes. By the time the glue has had a sufficient amount of time to bond the tracks yet remain flexible. I then affix them to the tank, ensuring that the proper sag, etc is evident and leave them on to dry for about an hour.

At this point if all is done correctly, you simply need to remove the sprocket and idler and the tracks will come off with them. I have used this method successfully now for about ten models. And with the Magic Tracks I can have a side done and drying within 40 minutes (including the drying time prior to placing them on the model.
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Last edited by Stuke Sowle; 10-18-2006 at 01:06 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-15-2006, 12:05 AM
Stuke Sowle's Avatar
Stuke Sowle Stuke Sowle is offline
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Odds and ends

I have pretty much zero reference on this hulking bit of metal. So some questions from the experts here might pop up. I am pretty much limited to the AP publication (about six pages) and PS amazing work in TMMI as references.

I did not have a specific vehicle in mind when I began this project. I just knew I didn't want to tackle zimm with her. Looking at the AP title there seems to be an early and late version but these are listed as the 20th and 82nd production vehicles respectively. I'm a little confused as to when exactly the late started. Is it with the 82nd vehicle....or somewhere in between.

The differences listed in AP between the two seem nominal, but not unnoticeable. The biggest hitters are: a redesigned gun cradle, pilzen surrounding the superstructure top, different bump stops around the engine access panel, the track tension cable is moved, the AA base is in a different position, some additional grab handles above the rear hatch and on the drivers and radio operators hatches, etc.

Looking at Phils work they are both in the early category. Upon examination of the pictures I could find on the internet, all seemed to fall in the early category as well. My biggest concern was that there were early vehicles without the zimm and it appears that indeed there were. Given that I have decided to go with an early vehicle. But if anyone has further info that would enlighten me please feel free to do so.

Here is a shot of the rudimentary interior. I did add some of it as I want to add a figure in the hatch to help illustrate the size of this thing. I did not concern myself however too much as you can see by the big gaps!



And in a move that I don't usually do, I started to add the bits to the upper hull prior to gluing it to the lower hull. Not sure why but I seem to be able to handle the model a bit better using this process. Especially for the small bits.

A shot of the roof:



And two of the engine deck. Nothing special here. Just drilled out the one bit on the hatch. Not sure what it is for??





A shot of the front, nothing really added yet:



Now some shots of the superstructure sides. As you can barely see, there is a texture to the armor so I did not add any. One frustration is that after gluing the track hangers, the track itself does not seem to line up quite right with the bit at the bottom:





Not sure how I will address that yet.

Here is a shot of the other side. I did drill out holes in the two bits as photos show they were there:



Now that I have decided what version I will be building, I should be able to plug along a little quicker. There really aren't that many little bits to this monster!
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Old 10-15-2006, 12:20 AM
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Larry Bates Larry Bates is offline
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Hey Stuke!

Good to see ya building again!

Nice kit this one. I have one of the older ones, and I think it's pretty good. Not alot of subjects for it . I'll post up a couple if you 'd like, or e-mail them to you. I have several of 331 showing the camo in good clear shots. pm me if you want.

Larry
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Old 10-15-2006, 01:17 AM
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brokeneagle brokeneagle is offline
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Nice track hang dude

Stuke,
great to see you posting again. Like Larry I have the old kit but it does not seem to be too different. I already have all the extra bits for it anyway.
You have managed to get a great track hang which is not always an easy thing.
I can help with ref photo's as well....just let me know. Good luck with the build.

Last edited by brokeneagle; 10-15-2006 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:46 AM
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lquah lquah is offline
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Stuke

Nice build you got there. I will be following with interest and I have some refes to help as well.

Lawrence
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:17 AM
Flak Flak is offline
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Great to see your work again...nice work ...
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Old 10-15-2006, 11:24 AM
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mrt mrt is offline
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Wink Hey Stuke!

Nice to see something posted from you!, you know you can finish this one

Andy
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Old 10-15-2006, 02:57 PM
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Sticky Sticky is offline
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Glad to see some work! Thats a big motha ain't it?
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Old 10-15-2006, 03:11 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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makes me wish I had time to work on my JT I started earlier this year. Good to see ya modelling again.
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Old 10-15-2006, 03:59 PM
Stuke Sowle's Avatar
Stuke Sowle Stuke Sowle is offline
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Thanks for the encouragement guys! It's a pretty easy build thus far. I can see that the biggest task will be filling in all the gaps around the lifting hooks, and track holders with Mr. Surfacer.

Larry, Ian and Lawrence - if you can post some shots in this thread it might help others not just myself for future builds. I'm really looking for ideas on how to paint her. I suspect I might have to tackle some hard edge. Doah!
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