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  #31  
Old 10-16-2006, 01:36 PM
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lquah lquah is offline
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Some update on the Tauchpanzer. I will not be following the instructions in sequence.

Running gear is complete. It is unchanged from the previous Pz IV D kit.

The side armor plates fit much better than the original kit.


The air intake vents are mislabeled in the instructions and should be C-1 & C-2 for the right side and C-3 & C-4 for the left side.


I added weld seams around the upper hull. Another distinguishing feature of the Tauchpanzer is the thin metal lip over the driver's visor. This is missing in the DML kit.


The unique feature of the Tauchpanzer, the one-way exhaust valves. They have not been glued yet.


The armored ventilator cover has been lowered a little as all the photos I have seen indicate that it was not flush with the superstructure top. I also added a weld seam around the top of the armored cover. The jack block holder and PE clasps come from Aber.


Lawrence
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Adrian Cronauer [imitating Walter Cronkite]: I just want to begin by saying to Roosevelt E. Roosevelt, what it is, what it shall be, what it was. The weather out there today is hot and shitty with continued hot and shitty in the afternoon. Tomorrow a chance of continued crappy with a pissy weather front coming down from the north. Basically, it's hotter than a snake's ass in a wagon rut.
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  #32  
Old 10-16-2006, 01:49 PM
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RC_Hill RC_Hill is offline
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Did you use styrene for the weld seams or putty?

Looks cool thus far LQ

~RC
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  #33  
Old 10-16-2006, 01:55 PM
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lquah lquah is offline
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Hiya RC
I used styrene rod as I couldn't be bothered mucking around with putty. Only problem I had was that the Tristar plastic is softer than the Plastruct rod. This meant that the plastic around the rod melted more than the rod

I used putty for the weld seam around the top of the armored ventilator cover.

And I know I said no PE for this build but I really didn't like the kit's depiction of the track grappler and side step on the left hull side. The Aber PE parts are much nicer and more accurate.

Lawrence
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Adrian Cronauer [imitating Walter Cronkite]: I just want to begin by saying to Roosevelt E. Roosevelt, what it is, what it shall be, what it was. The weather out there today is hot and shitty with continued hot and shitty in the afternoon. Tomorrow a chance of continued crappy with a pissy weather front coming down from the north. Basically, it's hotter than a snake's ass in a wagon rut.
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  #34  
Old 10-16-2006, 07:42 PM
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Larry Bates Larry Bates is offline
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Quote:
I used styrene rod as I couldn't be bothered mucking around with putty. Only problem I had was that the Tristar plastic is softer than the Plastruct rod. This meant that the plastic around the rod melted more than the rod

Lawrence , I had that same problem on my panther. So, I decided to use stretched sprue from the kit so the melting ratio would be the same.

Larry
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  #35  
Old 10-16-2006, 08:07 PM
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lquah lquah is offline
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Larry

Was thinking about the stretched sprue way but how do you get the same thickness (diameter) for the whole length of the sprue. Or is the trick to use small lengths?

Lawrence
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Adrian Cronauer [imitating Walter Cronkite]: I just want to begin by saying to Roosevelt E. Roosevelt, what it is, what it shall be, what it was. The weather out there today is hot and shitty with continued hot and shitty in the afternoon. Tomorrow a chance of continued crappy with a pissy weather front coming down from the north. Basically, it's hotter than a snake's ass in a wagon rut.
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  #36  
Old 10-17-2006, 12:30 AM
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Panzergrenadier Panzergrenadier is offline
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Nice work!

Lawrence,
I for example get same thickness by stretching a long piece. So when its stretched it is about 40 cm long. Then there is a section in the middle that is relatively eaqual. Hope this helps a little.

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  #37  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:27 AM
Flak Flak is offline
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Look nice...I have picked the kit today...and it look to be a nice kit too...
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  #38  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:52 AM
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Larry Bates Larry Bates is offline
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Yes, what Siim said.......Once the sprue is heated till shiney(gooey), wait a bit, I don't know how long, just got to try it a few times till you get what you want. Then stretch slow but steady. Practice will tell you how long to wait. Heck, it's kind of addicting once you get going.

It doesn't really matter if it's perfectly the same, heck, it's a weld! once it's melted and you press the texture in it probably won't show anyway.

Larry
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  #39  
Old 10-17-2006, 01:30 PM
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Thanks Siim and Larry.

I will have a go at stretched sprue for my next build. Didn't do it for this build as I didn't want to have to worry about different thickness of the sprue.

Marco
What version are you going to build?

Eventhough the instructions say to use the new upper hull for the Tauchpanzer, I would recommend using it for a standard Ausf D as well. All you need to do is to add the intake cover clasps.

Lawrence
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Adrian Cronauer [imitating Walter Cronkite]: I just want to begin by saying to Roosevelt E. Roosevelt, what it is, what it shall be, what it was. The weather out there today is hot and shitty with continued hot and shitty in the afternoon. Tomorrow a chance of continued crappy with a pissy weather front coming down from the north. Basically, it's hotter than a snake's ass in a wagon rut.
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  #40  
Old 10-17-2006, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lquah View Post

Marco
What version are you going to build?

Eventhough the instructions say to use the new upper hull for the Tauchpanzer, I would recommend using it for a standard Ausf D as well. All you need to do is to add the intake cover clasps.

Lawrence
Hi Lawrence,

I will go to "Standard" D...Thanks for your tips...I will start it when I back from NYC next week...
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