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Old 11-01-2008, 06:46 PM
Jojjemannen Jojjemannen is offline
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Weathering using oils

Hi Planet Armour geniuses!

I'm a first time poster, but a reader for a while
New to modelling, just started this summer after a 20 year break. When applying wash on a model today (Wash = mix 1 part oil paint with 9 parts white spirit is called wash?)

How exactly should one go a head to apply it? And how long should it be on? Removed directly? And how to remove the excess?

Reason for me asking this is that I tried this today, with the result that I could remove a big sheet of colour.. :|

I'm looking forward to your helpful tips.
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:16 AM
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David Diaz David Diaz is offline
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Hi Jojjemannen,

Nice to know you are back in the hobby. To answer your question; there are several types of washes for different effects it all depends on what you want to achieve.

Also there are several considerations before you apply the oils. Some people like to seal the model with a gloss or satin coat before applying the oil wash. This makes it easier since it protects the paint underneath from the spirits you are using as solvent and makes it easier for the washes to run into the detail. I personally donít like to use a sealing coat, but I make sure the paint is fully dry (at least 24 hours) before applying.

Now there are two main types of wash: the general wash and the pin wash. The general wash is very diluted and applied over a wide area. This is used to darken color tones and unify colors. The pin more concentrated and is applied directly onto the details you want to make stand out. I usually leave the wash to dry by itself, but some people like to remove the excess using a cotton swab or a brush. It really depends on what works best for you.

When in doubt always remember that you are better off with several coats of thins washes than with one heavy coat. Also it may be helpful if you post some pictures of your results, that way we can help you better.

I hope this helps

dave

Here is the effect of a general wash on my 250/5



And here are the results of a pin wash on my AB-40

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Old 11-02-2008, 11:51 AM
Jojjemannen Jojjemannen is offline
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Hi Dave,

And thank you for taking the time to help me out.

I'm currently at the office but I will post pictures of the result when I get back.

I opted for the general wash, after two cotes of satin coat, I applied lamp black and burnt umber mixed with turpentine.
What happened was that the paint stated to form bubbles, parts becoming loose and everything fell apart.

Why did this happen? Was the turpentine to strong? I waited over 24 hours before applying the wash.

Thanks so far!

Joseph
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:42 PM
Jojjemannen Jojjemannen is offline
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I hope that anyone of you can give a quick diagnose by looking at the picture on what I did wrong.

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I was able to lift huge chunks of the paint, all i one go.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:44 PM
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Seems to me from experience- you did not protect the paint job with a coat of Future or some other water based clear coat?
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:53 PM
Jojjemannen Jojjemannen is offline
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I used Testors nr 1560 ..dull coat.. two layers. Not enough with two? Or should I use a waterbased coat? Instead of a alcohol base which the turpentine that I use to thin the oil paint can dissolve.....

Last edited by Jojjemannen; 11-02-2008 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:54 PM
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Joseph,

That is one nasty job there! The same thing happened to me once. Like James said, sealing the paint with a coat of Future will prevent such disasters.

Also, where the satin coats water based? What brand did you used?

dave
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:06 PM
Jojjemannen Jojjemannen is offline
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I'm not alone! Whoohoo!

When you talk about Future, is it the floor wax?
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jojjemannen View Post
I used Testors nr 1560 ..dull coat.. two layers. Not enough with two? Or should I use a waterbased coat? Instead of a alcohol base which the turpentine that I use to thin the oil paint can dissolve.....
Hmmm I haven't been able to find that stock number. Are you sure that is the number. I have 1160 which is a lacquer based clear coat- in theory it should work to protect the underlying base colours because lacquer and oil based turps are different and the turps should not reactivate the lacquer. But there maybe mitigating factors here - the clear coat was not thick enough, which I suspect and from my experience turpentine is a very aggressive solvent for using to thin your washes with- I would suggest a gentler white spirits or paint thinner.
And yes Future is a water based clear acrylic plastic used on floors.
I would now suggest you try using some oven cleaner to strip the model back and try again. Look at this a a learning experience-
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Last edited by James Tainton; 11-02-2008 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:54 PM
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OuCh! Sorry, what a bummer!


Quote:
I would now suggest you try using some oven cleaner to strip the model back and try again. Look at this a a learning experience
...the good news is that your job if halfway done already..!

Please keep us updated...
Rick
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