Old 09-02-2008, 05:34 PM
HairySteve HairySteve is offline
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 37
Soar Art Dora

I bought this kit the other day. What a mistake.
Reading through this and other forums it turns out the whole kit is full of errors, some easy to sort out and others not so easy. I've gone through the Portugese forum post of the guy who corrected and rebuilt his one, it seems that almost the enire gun tube including the breech and recoil system is inaccurate and needs a lot of work. I thought I'd persist with it, however I'm rapidly changing my mind. I've just spent ages building just one of the brake assemblie (all 50 odd tiny fiddly parts of it) and tried test fitting it under the chassis of one of the bogey units. Firstly there is nowhere for the tops of the four outer swing arms to attach, secondly the brake shoes don't line up with the wheels, they're not even close! The track base is no use at all, the "ballast" is way over scale and doesn't line up across section joints, and the gauge is far too wide for 1/35 scale. I was planning to use Trumpeter track (at least it's scale!!!) but that would mean sanding down or re-drilling the inside face of all 80 wheels or sticking all 40 axles in my lathe and spinning a couple of millimetres off the centre section. At this rate I may as well ditch most of the kit and rebuild it with plastic sheet. Ok I know this is modelling but for nearly £400 I'd expect this kit to be reasonably accurate, not have such obvious errors as a gun barrel that's a foot too long, track that's far too wide to be scale gauge, parts that don't line up by a mile, and other glaring errors that are obvious even by glancing through the photos that Soar Art provide in their own instruction book!!! This model was going to be put on display in the shop where I work when it was finished, but at this rate I may as well throw the whole thing in the bin and not bother. It's a pity as I really like the Dora rail guns, and I wanted this kit to be good and be a pleasure to build, but I already want to give up on it and I'm still on page 1 of the instructions. (insert "crying smiley" here)

Last edited by HairySteve; 09-05-2008 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:27 PM
Panther F's Avatar
Panther F Panther F is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 189
Soar Art Dora

It takes a lot of guts coming forward and reporting this. Now I know why more haven't due to the cost of this kit.

Hope you work it out Steve.
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:33 PM
HairySteve HairySteve is offline
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 37
I'm a firm believer in telling the truth about something, even if it's cost me to find that out. However I think the Dora is certainly not beyond salvage. I'm going to press on and get this thing built, and hopefully do it justice. As I say, I work in a model shop, and the number of glowing "reviews" in magazines of models I know from first hand experience to be poor quality is beyond belief. In the past I've sent models back and refused to stock them in the future after having first hand experience of problems with them, even if it annoys the companies I get them from. I'd rather sell something I know is good, and won't cause the customers any problems.
Getting back to the Dora, I had a go at resolving the wheels issue today, and found that by sanding off the raised central boss on the back of the wheel, the wheels not only fit the 44mm gauge Trumpeter track I'm using, but also line up with the brake shoes, I'm considerably happier. I'll fire up the bench sander to do the rest of the wheels though, as sanding 80 wheels down by hand could take a while!! The plan is to use a 2.3m cabinet in the shop, I'll basically lay out a section of track on a baseboard, paint and weather it up, then use it as a base for my BR52 for a while as I build up sections of Dora. The plan is to build up bits at a time and as each section is complete I'll put it on the track base in the shop. So, hopefully it'll give the customers something to look at as well, "spot the new bit"
I'll try and make a list of any alterations and corrections I make to the kit, and I'll also try to get some decent photos as I build it as well. Oh, and I haven't forgotten about the Flak gun, I'm still working on that as well, I'm just waiting for an adapter to arrive for my air compressor and some decent weather so I can get outside and spray it
-Steve (feeling much more positive)

Last edited by HairySteve; 09-03-2008 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 09-28-2008, 03:00 PM
Firecaptain Firecaptain is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 33
I'm sure you're familiar with all of these, but misery loves company.........







I also have pages of build tips gleaned from the links above if you're interested.

This helps locate parts:

Part # -----------> Box

A1 - 2 ------------> 6
A3 - 4 ------------> 6
B1 -13 -------- ---> 5
B14 -------------> 5
B14 -15 --------> 5
C1 – 29 ----------> 5
D1 - 37 ----------> 6
E1 - 2 ------------> 5
F1 - 3 ------------> 3
F2 - 3 ------------> 3
F4 --------------> 5
F5 -------------> 2
G1 -10 ---------> 6
H1 - 2 ----------> 4
H3 - 6 ----------> 6
I1 – 3 -----------> 6
J1 - 25 ----------> 6
K1 - 4 ------------> 6
L1 - 4 -------------> 2
L5 - 6 -------------> 5
L7 - 8 -------------> 6
M1-13 ----------> 4
N1 – 6 ------------> 4
O1 -19 ------------> 6
O20 - 49 ----------> 4
P1 - 29 ------------> 4
P30 - 38 -----------> 5
P39 - 53 -----------> 6
Q1 - 6 -------------> 6
Q7 - 10 ------------> 6
R1 - 20 ------------> 6
R21- 4 -------------> 4
S15 - 22 -----------> 6
S1 - 6 --------------> 6
S23 - 24 -----------> 6
S7 - 14 ------------> 6
T1 - 14 ------------> 6
U1 - 7 -------------> 6
U8 - 16 ------------> 6
V1 - 6 -------------> 5
W1 - 4 ------------> 5
X1 - 5 -------------> 5
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Old 09-28-2008, 04:04 PM
James Tainton's Avatar
James Tainton James Tainton is offline
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: I'm not really sure... I just woke up and found my
Posts: 4,724
Originally Posted by Firecaptain View Post

I also have pages of build tips gleaned from the links above if you're interested.
I'm surely interested- anything that saves time
Can you post them here? Thanks.

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Old 09-29-2008, 09:20 AM
Firecaptain Firecaptain is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 33
Might be some duplication.....sorry.......I cut and paste alot...........

Did your Dora kit come with some wrong parts (the tops of the trucks)
The part numbers would be E1 and E2
Mine came all with only parts E1
You should have 2-E1's and 2-E2's in the kit

My kit came with E1s and E2s
They are labeled on the bottom
The photo-etched decks were in pairs. It took a couple of tries to line them up right.
The only modification I had to make was enlarging the holes for the rails.

So far the fit has been fairly good.
There are seams to remove and gaps to fill and ejector pin marks to fill or remove.
I highly suggest that you dry fit all major components and the accessories before gluing.

The catwalk and railings for the upper portion of the mainframe will not fit because of the munitions handling platform.

On the munitions handling platform STEP 23, there are two strips that are to be laid in place after attaching the platforms (with 6 screws) to the mainframe and one side will not sit flush with the platform.

There are several mistakes in the instructions:

Page 22 step 7 has two R26 parts to be attached
The right hand one is shown correctly, the left hand one is pointing to the wrong spot

Page 31 step 17 refers to part M6 - it should be M11

There are two slots molded into the mainframe L2 and L1 but no corresponding part is shown glued into that slot.
Part B6 goes onto all those "boxes" on the upper trunions, there are 2 similar boxes on the lower section, and 1 hidden box higher up on the upper trunion section

Be careful with Parts T13 and O44, handles on the breech block. They will break off if you look at them hard.

Page 30 Step 16 There are two large wheels G8 are shown attached to the frame L8 but when you actually get the parts together there are no locating pins or marks. You have to guess where they go.

Page 34 step 24 the travel block is shown with only one wire holding it up. This block probably had four wires and maybe even a 5th so to make it look good and a little more accurate this should be modified.

The access ladders come in two halves and are glued together.
You may want to spend some time dry fitting them before gluing. If not, you may have some distortion of the side rails and some gaps in the steps where they join together

Part B-9 hand-wheel mounting on the sides
Reference the real picture of the sides, I used my opti-visor to look close, I think there are 74 parts on each side (more than the 4 shown in the instructions are to be placed on the model)

The trusses for the rear of the gun only have 1 equipment box on them

In the group of railings, the one unit with the small PE screen, should fit on the main frame, with the "hinged" floor plate angling up onto the flooring running along side the trunion mount. Having that small flooring section level may cause fit problems. If you made it hinged on the 2 "D" parts, you'll be good to go.

Deutsche Eisenbahn Geschutze - Rohr-Artillerie auf Schienen
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:22 AM
Firecaptain Firecaptain is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 33
Again........sorry if there's any duplication.......

Step 6 - Page 20 - shows part O18 being mounted with the flange pointed toward the frame (flange pointing outward away from spring) I'll be building mine with the flange pointed toward the frame. I was searching for pictures to see which direction they should point but have failed to find and good references.

In the test fitting I did, it seams that the barrel doesn't lock into position if you want to position it at an elevated position. Is it supposed to be able to be posed at various elevations without fixing it permanently using glue?
What use is the spring?
The spring is to force the toothed segment out to engage the toothed parts already installed on the trunion section.

As for the part N2 walkway, there must be room so that the ladder could fit between the upper screen and the center spacer box. I am centering mine

Step 16 - Page 30 - (pushing device) when placed in the loading platform recess, it stands too tall. The extension arm will not engage a shell that is in the center tray. The 1/144 scale model I built last year depicts this piece to sit much lower. I'm considering removing the wheels and wheel frames (you can't see them anyway) to lower the device.
The center platform is adjustable in height. As these photos show, in the raised position the shell is at the correct height to be inserted into the gun which is in a horizontal position. Therefore the pushing device is in the correct configuration with the wheels attached.
Determine which position to show the center platform
Raised for loading with the barrel in the horizontal position
Lowered for firing with the barrel in the up position.
The lowered position with the barrel in the firing position would be more impressive.

Step 18 - instructions tell you to put this part at the back of the Dora, this in fact is the front part.

There are locating holes made for these parts but unfortunately they are positioned at the middle of the model and not at the top, where they are supposed to be.

The parts have been re-made to adapt to the shape of the sides, according to pictures of the real gun

The holes in the plates inside have been made so they resemble pictures on the Step 20 parts.
There is a picture of a person standing on a latter inside Step 18, so there definitely is a way through this area.

Step 18 - consists of 2 identical structures. These 2 structures must have been bolted together in some kind of way I guess

Step 18 - boxes are two pieces and go with Photo 3 on Page 5
The boxes are probably mis-shapen and should be trapezoid shape instead of rectangular

Step 18 / Step 20 - might be the wrong way around
Part 20 should go to the back while Part 18 should go to the front

Step 20 - box is one piece and corresponds to Photo 2 on page 5.
Assemble as the instructions call for.
Step 20 - was a 2-piece part in real life, just as Step 18.

You mentioned that the modified part is supposed to fit at the front, but the front part has a sloped part that goes into the 2 vertical slots where screws are attached. I have test fitted this monster and the part is well hidden after assembly.
The 2 slots are for Step 20, make sure that these are at the back. The screw holes are to be filled as they are made for the Step 20 Parts, but are located at the front. I recall pictures shown in the instructions and you can see that there is written “front” and “back” on Step 18 or 20.

There has been some rumblings in other posts that the locating holes for this particular part is incorrect, but I had no problem whatsoever with mine. Just make sure when the inside bulkheads (Parts L3 / L4) are correct, and this can be easily done by making sure the 2 holes for the screw on the main body corresponds with the vertical slots on the inside bulkheads.
The locating holes are positioned to low, the Step 18 Parts are supposed to be at the top of the mainframe, not in the middle. You will have problems with the large PE parts mounted between the 2 mainframes. I believe that this has to be cut in 2 and positioned on both sides of Step 18. But I have not looked at this 100%.

I do agree that this part doesn't look right, as there simply isn't enough space for a person to access the walkways in between.

You mean the Step 20 assembly is supposed to go to the back?
Step 20 - Page 32, fits into the 2 vertical slots (circled in Red) and there are two holes at the bottom where the 2 screws lock.

After reading your post, I test fitted the pieces and they do go as per the instruction booklet. I have uploaded some pics in my vBench thread.

I do agree that the two Step 18 parts are too low if you follow the locating holes (circled in Yellow) since it's impossible for the personnel to access the walkways.

I'll try fitting the large PE fret this weekend to see if there're any fit problems.

Page 23, there's this triangular structure (parts R21, R37 and R44). I've read that it might not be on an assembled gun ready for fire.
It might have been there for transportation purposes. What do you think?
If you look at the instructions, on page 5:
Picture 2 you can see the front support between the 2 mainframes. This part is flat on the top and not sloped as step 20. In front of this there is a tread plate, maybe part of PE #V3
Picture 3 shows step 20, on this you can see it is written, "Liker Träger, Hinten", that translates to “left to the rear”.

It looks like Part 18 should go to the front and Part 20 to the back. I will not take a tremendous amount of correction, just switching the inner bulkheads so that the vertical slots go to the back, and filling the holes. How are you gonna go about this?

The other thing to note is that Parts M9 (2 pieces) and M5 (2 pieces) should be left off carriage #2. It's part of the transporting equipment. Can't recall where I read this information but it should definitely be credited to the person who pointed this out.

Try 'trapping' the barrel between the 2 halves.
Follow the instructions by positioning the barrel between the halves then inserting the huge pin. You'll find that the spring will want to push the two halves apart and 'spring' the barrel loose. So what I did was to hold the two halves together with the barrel in place and at the same time place the back superstructure.
The weight and the four locating positions on the back superstructure and the two halves will hold the barrel in place. Even without the screws, they lock in pretty well.

The trusses for the rear of the gun only have 1 equipment box on them.
Rail bed ties - Tamiya Flat Khaki, followed with a wash of Humbrol thinner and Winsor & Newton oils Ivory Black. After that had dried I did a dry brush of a mixture of 70% Yellow Ochre and 30% Titanium White.

Rail car wooden beds - Tamiya Panzer Grey followed with a wash of Humbrol thinner and Winsor & Newton oils Ivory Black. After that had dried I did a dry brush of a mixture of 70% Yellow Ochre and 30% Paynes Grey.
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:23 AM
James Tainton's Avatar
James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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Posts: 4,724
Many Thanks!

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Old 09-29-2008, 03:43 PM
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Panzergrenadier Panzergrenadier is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Estonia
Posts: 3,017
Thanks, seems like for the price there is enough to worry about.
New Estonian modelling site:

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Old 09-29-2008, 04:48 PM
Firecaptain Firecaptain is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 33
It's still a bad-arse (in a good way) kit no matter how you look at. It's not for everyone, due just to to the size alone.
I have all of the Trumpy rail guns, so I just had to have this monster.
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