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  #1  
Old 09-14-2014, 02:12 PM
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IS-2 432, 7th Guards, Berlin - Tamiya 1/35

My local hobby shop was clearing out all its old models to do remodeling (ba-dum bum), and I picked this puppy up 40% off. It comes with the Aber gun and photo-etch. I like the polar bear on red star (from the 7th guard's brigade), so I've decided to go with tank 432.

Looking on the internet, there's a number of tanks of the 7th Guards, 414, 432, 434, 443, etc. None of them offer more than one side of the tank, so I'd thought I'd do a composite, since we have 434 from behind, 414 from the port side, and 432 from the starboard. But, low and behold, looking at a pic of tank 443, who's that right behind? It's 432.

432 is missing all of its fuel tanks, most of its starboard fenders (including the mudflap), while its port side front fender is gone, and I think its mud flap. The fuel tank attachments on the starboard are gone, but present on port side. I was going to put some trees as ditching beams on the port side, because they were present on 414, but as is clear from the 2nd attachment, 432 did not have them.

I also managed to snag a partially built kit off eBay: a DML JS-2M UZTM production. It's not in good shape, and many of the wheels have broken off. But what it did come with were Friul tracks, AL-14, already built (though too short, I'll have to add links). I got the whole thing for less than the cost of the Friul tracks). It also came with a metal barrel and a set of Eduard photo-etch for an Italeri IS-2. I think I'm gonna fix it up as well.

I panicked after comparing the tracks, and realizing that the AL-14 was all guide horned links, while in the Tamiya kit, both the rubber band tracks and the link-and-length were links with every other one having a guide horn. However, after looking at the links with guide horns and those without, I noticed that those with had a notch in the bottom, and looking at the first attachment, you can see that every visible link has a notch. Whew! One little hitch, though, the drive wheel doesn't fit the Tamiya.





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Last edited by armor fiend; 09-14-2014 at 07:23 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2014, 09:42 AM
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So far, this is your typical Taniya shake-n-bake. Just pour the glue in the box and shake. Out pops a model. My first impression of Tamiya was from the Lee I just finished (after almost five years). That was a mess of ill fitting parts with lots of flash, and very inaccurate. But this kit is like the CitroŽn. Almost no clean up, fits up nice. The seams are almost unnoticeable, almost no flash, and the attachment points are either very small or offset, and easily removed. This is, so far, a great kit. Gonna be a real shame to go from this to the DML.

Step 1 is the road wheels and the front and rear armor. I hate road wheels. But, get them done and out of the way, and the rest is joy. These weren't so bad. They cleaned up so nice and easy, whole thing took me but an hour. You can see the cast detail. Tamiya didn't put any on the inside of the return wheels, since it would never be seen.



Here's a couple comparison shots of the Tamiya versus the Friuli. I don't know which is more accurate, but the Friuli has a more pointed hub. Bonus, the Tamiya drive wheel actually fits the Friuli tracks better than the Friuli does.



Tamiya includes a jig to ensure your road wheels are aligned correctly. It's hardly necessary because of the excellent fit, but it does help a little bit. I'm gonna hang on to these and see if I can use them on my T-55A.




Detail shot of the side. Have to fill that seam in with a weld.



Front armor. It's incomplete because there's some fiddly bits from the Aber set that go here, which I'm going to wait until I'm done to install. Goes for the rear armor as well.



Wheels on.



And a couple teaser shots.



I had to removed the idler wheels for the tracks to fit, as they're a little short, but looks good.


Last edited by armor fiend; 09-22-2014 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:22 PM
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Okay, built up the top of the hull and the turret this last week.

The top of the hull comes in two parts.



Before connecting, I removed the fenders that were missing from 432. As best as I can tell, this is mostly from the front hull. This is early in the process.



After cutting away the fender supports on the side of the hull. These were quite thick, and removing them damaged the cast texture Tamiya made.



Now with part of the rear fender (and mudflap) removed. Then I took a lighter to the flap that remained. The fenders are actually quite thick, so this wasn't as easy as I hoped.



From the rear. I took off too much mudflap, leaving a gap in the sponson. You can see the bent fender from the rear.



Added torch cutting marks to the remaining piece that was cut free.



From the side with the bent fender.



And the damage to the port side fender.



The rear deck, air intake. I thought I was going to have to scratch these at first, but was pleasantly surprised to find them as part of the kit. This is before I added the slats to the rear vents.



And then with them added. Makes a difference. No flashlight wielding judge is gonna get me.



Prepping the gun travel lock for photo etch.


Top of the turret completed. The top is slightly pitted, like poor quality steel, but not cast.


Last edited by armor fiend; 09-22-2014 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:27 PM
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And a few shots I took with the gun partly completed and dry fitted in the turret, along side the DML UTZM IS-2. It turns out that tank 414 is a UTZM model, and so I will complete it and add it to the diorama. When I finish with the Tamiya, prior to painting, I'll work on the DML.

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Old 09-21-2014, 10:48 PM
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Now to start fixing the damage, add in weld seams, and some stowage bars.







After adding .3mm x .5mm strip around the seam of the turret, I doused it in Tamiya thin cement. Then I cut a number of small vertical slices in it with a #11, blade.



I doused it with more cement, which was now able to penetrate more deeply, and then made long, horizontal cuts in the strip with a #10 (curved, convex) blade.



Lastly, more cement, and then roll it with a wooden clay carving instrument. Hopefully this looks something like the messy welding on Soviet vehicles.



Cutting off the molded in handles on the read deck in prep for the photo etch.



I thought the cast surface on several sides of the turret was rather weak.



Adding back some texture to the stuff that was sanded off or hidden by putty, or was never there because it was "under" the fenders.





Added the spare tracks to the tank.



You can also see the repair to the rear starboard sponson here.



Then I added the metal tracks, after adding two links to each set.





As you can see, way too much sag. So I removed one link. Much better.







Eleven stowage handles, courtesy of Griffons handle and hinge tool.



I got out my caliper and measured the distances on the turret, and poked little holes in before drilling. Unfortunately, a one was in the wrong place, and I ended up drilling three extra holes. A few were a little wide. So I put some styrene rod in the extra holes and sealed them up nice. But not as of these pictures.




Last edited by armor fiend; 09-23-2014 at 08:08 AM.
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  #6  
Old 09-24-2014, 11:05 PM
MCR MCR is offline
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"Welds"

I'm no expert when it comes to the KV or JS series of tanks but, generally speaking, the Soviets cast their turrets as single pieces. Those aren't welds but casting seams you're seeing.
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2014, 05:12 PM
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I think you're right, damnit.
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Old 10-01-2014, 08:27 PM
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So, I went back and chipped away at the seem on the turret. I think it's better, but won't really know until a coat of primer is on it. Been a slow week. Not much done. I started adding some photo etch.

I have a Glue Looper that a friend bought at the IPMS nats. Been trying it out. It recommends using only thin cyanoacrylate (or thin cement). It's definitely helped me, as I used to get cyanoacrylate all over the place. But I filed down on of the sides, because as small as the metal of the loop is, it was still just a tad too tall.

First couple things I did, after chipping the seem (sorry, no pics) was to drill all the mounting holes. This happened in stages, because I didn't realize there were more. I see models with rings in them, but I've yet to find an image of an actual tank with any, so these are all sans rings, atm. There's a total of 13 of them (but only two pics, don't want to bore you). In the second pic I've added a photoetched piece for the weld of another part, but I put it the wrong direction. Had to fix it later. I also added more torch cut marks.



After that, drilled out holes for the attachment bolts for the mudflap. I poked little holes in the other side with my caliper to add cut styrene bolts later.



Fender attachments.



The empty fuel racks. When I took the pics, one of them wasn't level. Later fixed. I had thought this was gonna be a pain in the butt, but Aber designed this well.



Finally, did a little bit on the rear plate. The gun lock looks pretty nice, even if it's only half done. Have to say, that Glue Looper really came in handy here. The washers are SO tiny I'd have not even bothered since they'd have been drowned in glue. Not sure what that piece of brass tube is for, but it looks better than the little rectangle Tamiya had there.



Lastly, removed and readded the welds on the corners, added the upright part, than added these last kit parts (only have to attach the hatches and I'm done with the styrene kit) for holding the tow cables.


Last edited by armor fiend; 10-01-2014 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:30 AM
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Didn't do a lot over the weekend. Mostly research and stuff.

Decided to add the bolts to the rear mud flap. Also added a small strip connecting the mudflap to the fender. Also added some bolts on the fender supports, figuring the bolts would remain even after the rest was torn away, especially since they're still holding that one piece in.



Added a weld seam to the side of the machine gun.



Some more seams for the exhaust. The seams for the exhaust deflectors were much smaller and thinner, so I just used thinner and a knife, no extra styrene.



I moved the attachment points on the top rear once again, after looking at a couple different sets of walk around pics. Aber has the location wrong. I also removed the plastic bar for the rear access hatch axel. It had broken and was bent. Cut it off, and drilled it out. Once I assemble the hull, I'll put a piece of wire in there.



Lastly, added a couple wire attachment points I see in the various walk arounds. Copper wire, just under the tow cable attachment points.

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Old 10-08-2014, 11:02 AM
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So, this is where Aber says to put the cable attachment. And where it is on the actual tank.

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