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  #21  
Old 06-23-2013, 07:04 PM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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As promised, paint work was the order of the day for this latest round of progress. Figuring out when and how to paint things is important with this vehicle given its somewhat unique design characteristics with that mesh back end to the fighting compartment. I decided to go ahead and paint only the interior of the fighting compartment, the exterior of the mesh areas, and the gun and mount in this round. First up was the application of a primer coat by airbrush using MM Italian Dark Brown.



After that had dried, the base coat went on using the same 50/50 Dunkelgelb/Light Gray mix used earlier on the hull interior. The gun and mount are dry-fit only and will remain separate until the camo pattern is on to make it easier to avoid paint over-spray issues in the fighting compartment.



Since I already had the airbrush loaded up with primer and the DY mix at various points in the day, I took advantage of that and painted the road wheels. They were primered at the same time as the vehicle and then the rubber rims were airbrushed with MM enamel Gunmetal while still on the hubs. Once that had dried, I removed the outer rubber tire and used a circle template to mask the hub and avoid getting paint on the rim since they are too tight to tolerate any paint interference with the rubber rim going on. Hubs were airbrushed with the DY/LG mix and then the rubber rims put back in place.



Rounding out things, I worked on some of the fighting compartment interior details. The crew seat cushions were hand painted in a multi-step process. First a base coat of MM enamel Gunmetal was applied, then I dry-brushed several layers in the order of MM enamel Leather, some of the DY/LG mix, another Leather pass, and then a final very light layer of the original enamel Gunmetal. I also applied some Black artist pastels in a couple of spots to even things out a bit.

The kit-supplied gas mask containers were installed as well along with the jack block and holder. For the jack block, I added some wood grain texture to the block since Bronco molded it smooth using the point of a square needle file to score the plastic and then lightly sanded it down. The block was base coated with the DY/LG mix, then given a light wash of MM enamel Leather to bring out the grain texture.



The interior and gun will be allowed to thoroughly cure before moving on their weathering stages as the next step.
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  #22  
Old 06-30-2013, 03:55 PM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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Started in on the fun part this round with the weathering work on the fighting compartment and the rear portion of the gun. As a foundation, I created some scuffs/chipping by stippling MM enamel Burnt Umber in various areas and then sealed that up with a coat of Future and allowed it to cure overnight before applying more weathering. First step involved a wash of MM enamel Raw Umber, then some dry-brushing of the 50-50 base-coat mix, then a second wash of MM enamel Raw Sienna, more dry-brushing of the base-coat mix, then a pin wash of MM enamel Burnt Umber, and a last very light dry-brushing of the base-coat mix where the pin wash had been applied to round things out. All those layers were then sealed together with an application of MM Lusterless Flat via rattle-can to remove the remaining Future gloss and unify everything together.



The gun received slightly different treatment. I hand detailed all the various parts such as the breech lever, the gunner's and loader's triggers, the breech block, the sight, and the control wheel knobs and then it too was given a coat of Future on the inside portions only since there's more paint work to be done on the exterior pieces later. The gunner's sight was molded solid on both ends so I used a pin vise and micro-drill bits to open up both their faces for added detail. Chipping/scuffing was done with the same stippled Burnt Umber approach prior to the Future and then post-Future a wash of Raw Umber added followed by careful dry-brushing of the 50-50 base-coat mix to create the weathering. That was all sealed up with a dose of the MM Lusterless Flat at the same time as the fighting compartment.





And just to be sure it all 'looks right' together, here's a top-down shot showing the gun in position along with the weathered fighting compartment.



Next up will be spending some time on the MK workable tracks, need to get them squared away and fitted properly before finishing up the hull details and getting it painted.
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  #23  
Old 07-02-2013, 04:40 AM
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Ropi Ropi is offline
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Hello there Bill,

Nice paintwork so far, but let me make a small suggestion: the sliding parts of the gun operation were left unpainted and were polished during the gun operation. In this case I am talking about the parts where the breech was sliding when recoiling, which part you have painted. Thought this might help.
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  #24  
Old 07-02-2013, 09:54 AM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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Thanks Ropi, appreciate the comments! In the last pic looking top-down you should be able to see that the contact surfaces on the recoil tray are left in bare metal (plus some weathering since these weren't chromed surfaces, just bare steel that would oxidize slightly unless the gun had been in recent action) just as you pointed out they should be. Since I'm not placing the vehicle on a base or with a crew, I deliberately chose not to leave them 'shiny' steel but did replicate the bare metal surfaces that should be there for an in-service weapon as opposed to say a museum or display piece that's been painted and repainted many times over the years.
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  #25  
Old 07-06-2013, 07:47 PM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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Spent a good deal of time with the Marder in the paint booth today but before we get to that, there were some small little details on the hull that needed tending to. They included the large fighting compartment lifting eyes (H9) and the tiny tie-down loops in PE (P33). There are 16 of the PE loops that go around the top of the compartment and these were glued in place using liquid glue and Bronco's conveniently molded locater holes. These are quite delicate and Bronco provides 6 extras on the PE fret as back-ups just in case. I also added the spare track holder to the hull nose to round things out.



With that out of the way, it was time to finish the hull painting. I masked offer the interior on the compartment and the gun with blue painter's tape and set to work with the airbrush. Primer coat of MM Italian Dark Brown followed by the base coat of 50/50 MM Light Gray/Panzer Dunkelgelb did the trick.



The camo pattern came next. I used MM Khaki for the green portions first then added the red-brown using a 50/50 mix of MM Leather/Military Brown. After correcting for a little over-spray here and there, a mist coat using heavily thinned base coat was applied to tie the scheme together.







While that sits and cures up, work will continue on the tracks and other remaining equipment details.
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  #26  
Old 07-07-2013, 12:32 AM
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mike walsh mike walsh is offline
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Nice Paint job Bill .

It looks like a good test bed for the weathering.

Thanks
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  #27  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:00 AM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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Thanks Mike! Still more work to be done on the finish for sure but always a good thing to get the pattern on and ready for the weathering stages.
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  #28  
Old 07-14-2013, 04:48 PM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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Another productive round at the workbench to report as the Marder II D gets closer to the finish line. After letting the camo work sit for a bit, I decided to hit it one more time with another mist coat pass of the base coat to soften things a bit more and provide some additional fading.



Then it was time to have some fun with the lower hull and suspension. I added some wear to the lower hull by stippling some MM enamel Burnt Umber and then dry-brushing the base coat back over it. The sprockets and idlers had their contact surfaces treated with MM non-buffing Metalizer Steel and lightly dry-brushed with Burnt Umber. Since the road wheels are such a prominent feature on this vehicle, I gave them a coat of Future and then applied a wash of MM enamel Raw Umber followed by a dry-brush treatment with the base coat to bring out their detail. Sprockets and idlers are only dry-fit at this point and more weathering will come later with the pigment process.



Over the course of the last couple of weeks I'd been putting time in on the MK workable tracks as well. This set has the links molded individually with 4 contact points to clean up and the pins molded two to a 'handle'. Using the handy MK-supplied jig, runs of 10 links were assembled to create the full track runs. Both the MK instructions and the Bronco instructions indicate 94 links as the recommended total and to be on the safe side I stopped at 92 links before doing a test-fit.



As it turned out, even 92 links was too long even with the idler at its maximum position. I ended up needing only 89 links on the left side and 90 links on the right side. I checked to make sure there wasn't a size difference between the MK links and the Bronco links and both are exactly the same size...so no idea where the discrepancy comes from.





MK set had 20 links left over so I used 10 to create the spare track run for the front.



Tracks were dismounted and then given an airbrush coat using MM enamel Burnt Umber as the foundation. Once that cures, more work will be done to finish them up.



Next up will be working on the remaining details and getting them installed.
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2013, 05:17 AM
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That's a sharp looking camo being used there Bill and good ol Modelkasten to the rescue! I still have yet to try them!

Were the Broncos tracks unusable and what type are they?



~ Jeff
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2013, 10:11 AM
wbill76 wbill76 is offline
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Thanks Jeff! The MK's do require a little more work but are worth the effort IMHO. There was nothing wrong with the Bronco tracks other than the fact that they were static indies and I like to use workables for added flexibility whenever I can.
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