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  #21  
Old 06-24-2005, 08:33 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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dry fit


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  #22  
Old 06-25-2005, 11:38 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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here the arms of step 12 and 13 are getting near done.
some sanding of Mr. Surfacer still to be done.


A shot of all the arms near done with the metal parts as well


the gun pedestal coming together in Step 14.






legs added to the middle part






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  #23  
Old 06-25-2005, 11:48 PM
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here the gun meets pedestal














a 3D version
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  #24  
Old 06-25-2005, 11:53 PM
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the wheels get started now


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  #25  
Old 06-26-2005, 02:25 PM
yagdpanzer yagdpanzer is offline
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Excellent build.

Kudos on how you depict the assembly step by step.
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  #26  
Old 06-26-2005, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by yagdpanzer@Jun 26 2005, 11:25 AM
Excellent build.

Kudos on how you depict the assembly step by step.
I agree, the best of it's type that I have seen.

James, where do you find the time to work on this model and the RSO???
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  #27  
Old 06-26-2005, 05:48 PM
Evan August Evan August is offline
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That is looking awesome for out of box. Maybe when Dragon's 37 comes out you can go nuts and superdetail it? This kit is on the to do list, but I really need to finish something first.
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2005, 03:48 AM
houdini houdini is offline
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Alwen,one of the most famous model-maker in China,said:"I just checked out the sprues of DML 88 Gun in LHS--its super details impressed me ,then I put the box back to the shelf for its poor in human engineering".
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  #29  
Old 06-27-2005, 06:26 AM
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James, you've inspired me. The Panther II is in the half started kit pile and the DML 88 is on the bench.

Man this is an ace kit.

Bill.
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Not such an oldy, but a goody. "Pepper" by Butthole Surfers.
..and is that really Tommy Lee Jones in the car at the start???

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=g4WUlNSx_Wk
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  #30  
Old 06-27-2005, 07:45 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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Time to add some new pics dealing mainly with the wheels but first- a couple of shots showing the gun primed out in Mr. Surfacer.


I had a problem with one of the pistons falling out /off its attachment point- ended up breaking the plastic end- and what I did is then broke the other one too. In the end I replaced the plastic attachment point ends with some brass rod and then drilled out the plastiic part so the barss rod could slide up inside- this will make a real nice and secure bond.
(oh another tip, make sure you go over the metal parts with a 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to give the paint something to grip- this is called giving it a "tooth")
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