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  #211  
Old 11-19-2008, 05:36 PM
robertkru robertkru is offline
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Hi Sergiusz
Congratulation to your excellent work. One of the best builT Stug I ever saw. But one small error: the hinge of hatch should be on the place where no periskope is . In your case at the front side. Either you have to turn the hatch or the cupola ( I would recommend cupola).
Regards Robert
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  #212  
Old 11-19-2008, 06:21 PM
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Hi!
Thanks for your vigilance but I think you are not right... There were to types of cupola movable and not movable. My is the early movable type. For example this photo:
The Hinge is at the rear and no periscope-armoured plate on the front.



More you can read here: http://www.andreaslarka.net/phpBB3/v...c.php?f=4&t=67
Thanks to Andreas Larka the StuG expert!

Best regards!
Sergiusz
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  #213  
Old 11-20-2008, 12:53 AM
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Hi Sergiusz,

great Stug with a very cool finishing and plenty of details to keep watching it over and over again.

Robert
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  #214  
Old 11-20-2008, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertkru View Post
Hi Sergiusz
Congratulation to your excellent work. One of the best builT Stug I ever saw. But one small error: the hinge of hatch should be on the place where no periskope is . In your case at the front side. Either you have to turn the hatch or the cupola ( I would recommend cupola).
Regards Robert
Sergiusz is right. On the early rotating cupole the "blank" part is right in front, where the binoculars are. This is a mistake by Dragon. At least the instructions.
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  #215  
Old 11-20-2008, 08:29 AM
LONGSHANKS2966 LONGSHANKS2966 is offline
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Another try

I posted this on the previous page and it is about this stug from earlier page on the painting and mud applied to the chassis. My question to the group was.
.
"hello everyone. This is my first post as i am a new member. First I would like to commend Sergionex on an absolutely beautiful Stug. After many years of being out of the loop in AFV model world due to kids in the house I have come back and starting to get back into it; hoping to post some of my own soon once I get back into the swing of things.
My question lies in the mud on the chassis. I started my comeback with a KV2 and went ahead to do the same mud treatment. But I think I may have made an error in that as you can see from the pic attached, shouldn't the mud be missing where the suspension arms flex up and down with movement. I may be wrong, but was hoping to hear some comments on this observation. Seeing Serginex';s stug and the detail of the mud brought this point to my mind.
Hope to read some answer's. Again, a superb Stug; I tried to upload a pic, but couldn't"
If there's anyone with thought, would love to hear it.
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  #216  
Old 11-20-2008, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LONGSHANKS2966 View Post
I posted this on the previous page and it is about this stug from earlier page on the painting and mud applied to the chassis. My question to the group was.
.
"hello everyone. This is my first post as i am a new member. First I would like to commend Sergionex on an absolutely beautiful Stug. After many years of being out of the loop in AFV model world due to kids in the house I have come back and starting to get back into it; hoping to post some of my own soon once I get back into the swing of things.
My question lies in the mud on the chassis. I started my comeback with a KV2 and went ahead to do the same mud treatment. But I think I may have made an error in that as you can see from the pic attached, shouldn't the mud be missing where the suspension arms flex up and down with movement. I may be wrong, but was hoping to hear some comments on this observation. Seeing Serginex';s stug and the detail of the mud brought this point to my mind.
Hope to read some answer's. Again, a superb Stug; I tried to upload a pic, but couldn't"
If there's anyone with thought, would love to hear it.
Hi!
Maybe my KV-2 SBS will be helpful? Please look at this:
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4418

Best!
Sergiusz
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  #217  
Old 11-20-2008, 02:11 PM
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The barrel of the MG-34 is originally blued by Adles Nest, I just paint the receiver and sights using the Mr. Metal Color 212 IRON. It blends together perfectly. Another fact about this Mr. Hobby metalizers is that you can make enamel washes using enamel thinner or white spirit and don't damage the already painted parts! Older metalizers like Testors or Humbrol were very fragile for any thinner applications. I used MIG dark wash to finish the MG.
Hi Sergiusz,

Thanks a lot for your answer

Best regards,

Notger
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  #218  
Old 01-03-2009, 08:43 AM
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Finished!

Hello in the New Year!
The StuG is done! Finally I found proper Friul tracks, paint them and finished the model.

SBS-The tracks painting:

I chemically blackened the track using the Blacken-It formula. When I used the used up Blacken-It the effect is rusty and realistic...



..but not for this one, so I decided to wash the tracks in fresh Blacken-It:



Than I applied overall wash with MIG Dark Wash




Then I applied standard set of pigments...



...and fixed them with white spirit




To imitate the polished wheels traces I used the soft pencil (9b)



The track's teeth was painted with Mr. Metallic 214 Dark Iron. In my opinion this metallizes are the best for the brush applications. The are also very resistant for oil or enamel washes!



Than I polished the teeth with the Dremel tool and a felt tip:



I rubbed off the outermost parts of the tracks on the sanding paper to show the metal:



Using the Tamiya enamels, and Dry Mud pigment I made spots and splashes with an old brush and air from the airbrush:



I used my own (I hope 8) ) technique to made the pressed-in soil and the fresh mud. I mixed dark pigments and plaster with the acrylic resin but adding it carefully just to achieve the consistency of actual grains of garden soil. Then I rubbed and pressed-in to the tracks with my fingers. Smaller grains were sprinkled over it the random way. I also added the static grass and some Plus Model leafs. My goal was to archive the effect of torn out soil not the sticky mud. I hope you can understand me and the effect is visible. :roll:




Than I fixed it with the MIG's Pigment Fixer:



After tracks dried I retouch some places with more vivid hues of the pigments, some diluted gloss varnish and more leafs.


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  #219  
Old 01-03-2009, 08:44 AM
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Finished model:






















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  #220  
Old 01-03-2009, 08:44 AM
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Thanks to all of you for the back up and thoughts! I hope to use this model in some diorama...
Best regards!
Sergiusz
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