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Old 06-09-2008, 11:42 AM
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Paccus Paccus is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW of Stockholm
Posts: 109
A big THANKS guys, your comments are just too kind.

Martin, you're right. I'll add some small streaks from the metal loops holding the wire.

I'm also sorry for this late reply, but I've been busy with too much work and too little sleep. So if the grammar isn't on top, you know the reason .

Since some of you have asked, and that I’ve also got some mails regarding if I could better describe my painting and weathering technique, I thought I could put together a “brief” compilation about this matter. I just hope that my memory won’t let me down during this description.
I’ll start with a written SBS about painting the interior and later I’ll write one about the exterior, though the difference is really not that big.
Remember, that when I write this, I haven’t done step 12 and 13 yet.

TIP ! I always use the underside of the vehicle as a test palette to see that I get the colours right. If feeling unsure, every step described below can be tested this way.

This is how I painted the interior.

1 I start to airbrush with a mix of Tamiya Dark Yellow, Desert Yellow and some White.

2 Then I highlight the lower areas with the airbrush, using the same mixture as in step 1, but with more white in it. This will enhance the shadows from the angled upper structure. Nothing was done to the driver compartment, since this area is quite dark and shadowed from start.

3 Next is a thin wash of Burnt Umber (Winsor & Newton Oil’s) over the whole interior. An additional layer was laid on the areas that are naturally shadowed.

4 A quite thick pin wash of Burnt Umber and Black (W&N Oil’s) were then painted around all details that need enhancement (like rivets, panel lines, hinges etc.).

5 To get more variation of the flat areas (walls, doors etc.), small dots of different W&N Oil’s (Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and Naples Yellow Hue) were placed randomly. These dots were then wiped away, in a downward motion, with a brush moistened in thinner. Remember to clean the brush from time to time.

6 The first drybrush is done, with a mix of Vallejo German Camouflage Beige WWII and Sand Yellow. Using a round no. 3 brush, I take some paint on the round tip and rub off, as much as I can, on a piece of tissue. This drybrush is used over the whole interior. Details are drybrushed only with a downward motion, just to get the paint were the light normally hit. The flat areas were drybrushed with a more rubbing motion.

7 First chipping. I started chipping the red primer and rust areas. There’s not much difference between these two colours, so the same mixture was used for both. For the primer, Vallejo’s Tank Brown will do fine, but to add variation or to paint rust, you can add Leather Brown and Sand Yellow in the amount you prefer.
The mixture is diluted with a small amount of water, so the colours don’t get to harsh when applied. During chipping I use a fine no. 0 brush.
To simulate flaked paint I gently dab (the natural shakes in the hand) the tip against the surface, trying to make the mark as small as possible. For bigger and more irregular flakes I dab the tip several times, until the desired size or shape of the flake is achieved.
To simulate scratches I dilute the paint a bit more. I start to paint each scratch “in the air”, moving the tip closer and closer until it hit the surface, leaving a very subtle scratch. For more harsh scratches, the painting motion is slowed down and I let more of the tip hit the surface.

8 Using the same colour mixture as in step 7, I (very gently) drybrush rivets and the floor, where the wear isn’t too regular.

9 Second chipping. Now it’s time to paint the bare metal areas. For this colour I mixed Vallejo Black, German Fieldgrey WWII and Blanco White. I work in the same way as described in step 7. But the areas I choose for bare metal are mainly (not always) some of the previously chipped primer and rust areas. I paint these areas, leaving just an outer border of primer or rust.

10 Once again it’s time for some drybrushing. Now I do the areas more frequent to wear, like most of the floor, lower part of the walls etc. Here too, I use the colour mixture from the previously step (step 9).
This mixture is also used to simulate more of the ingrained dirt on the walls, doors and ammo boxes. I rub it in and if done properly, it’ll look like old dirt and not bare metal.

11 Now I paint the freshly worn metal and this is only done to a few, well thought out places. This can easily be over done and to shiny, which will ruin the over all appearance of the model. I use a soft graphite pencil and just pull the tip along the planned edges, handles etc. I also grind the tip against a file and use the powder to simulate dirt the same way as in step 10, but instead of using a brush I use my fingertip. I feel like I have better control this way.

12 Painting mud streaks. This is done the same way as in step 5, but only with a few, well placed dots. I mix the Oil’s so that the result will look like dried mud.
You can vary the mud colours, but keep the streaks down, as this is the interior.

13 Finally I finish the painting with pigments from MIG. I used Concrete most, but also Europe Dust and Russian Earth. Concrete is perfect to use when you want that over all dull and dusty look of your vehicle. The other two pigments are more for varying the colours and to show dirt from the recently travelled environment.
To get that subtle dull and dusty look I, once again, take my no.3 brush, gently dip it in the pigments and wipe the excess off. Then I work in the same way I do, as if I dust off a model. The key to success is to stop in time, as it easily can get too much.
I only put one very thin layer of Concrete over the whole vehicle, and then go back with additional layers where dust normally accumulates. These additional layers are done by gently touching the vehicle with the brush-tip, and then with a circular or dabbing motion make the spots bigger.

That’s it.

I will include a description on how I painted the leather support and the bench later, but this and any other stuff that I can think of regarding the SBS above will be announced in my following replies in this thread.

Hopefully you got your answers on how I work after reading this. Anyway, I hope you like what I wrote and find it useful.

Good Luck / Mattias Larsson

Last edited by Paccus; 06-09-2008 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 03-09-2009, 05:44 PM
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Paccus Paccus is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW of Stockholm
Posts: 109
Hi guys, it's been a while since my last update and I'm sorry for that. Had a "slight" drop of motivation, but now I'm back hoping to finish this one at the end of the month.

Here we go. The base have started to take shape and I've included a very small Latvian church, which i found when searching the web for a suitable building. I make most of it from plaster and that really tests your patience sometimes.
I've also added a fifth character, the one that leans against the wall. He is positioned at the church as some kind of forward sentry, even though this scene takes place a couple of kilometers behind the front.

The chief is done to about 99%. Some final weathering is all that's left.

The driver is about 80% finished. The face is done, though not much will be visible. I exaggerated the facial colours a bit to make him more visible through the open vision port. His jacket will be given a more yellow-brown hue and final weathering.

The dead crew member is also done to about 99%. Just some final treatment once it's glued to the hood. The white appears to strong in the picture, which also goes for the blood around his head.

I've also finished sculpting and converting the last two figures, and they have been primed after these pictures were taken.

The sitting figure comes from Warrior but are converted to fit the scene. I added a layer of Sculp
to make his reversible jacket thicker and covered his legs with a blanket.
He got minor shrapnel wounds to the right side of his face (around the ear) so a bandage
around the head were made together with a proper German haircut.

The standing soldier is a Platoon-figure and no major conversions were needed. I just made his
hands show a bit more through his pockets and simulated ammo pouches under his great coat.
He will have his Gewehr 43 leaned against the wall and his helmet on a bench behind him.

I hope you're not too disappointed with my long absence from this site as I need your opinions about my progress so far.

That's it for now. Time to go to bed.

/ Mattias Larsson
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:02 AM
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Jan Peters Jan Peters is offline
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Location: Arnhem, the Netherlands
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It sure has been a while Marcus, but well worth the wait!
Excellent progress, lets have some more.
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:56 AM
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camokid camokid is offline
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Location: Just outside Providence
Posts: 274
Nice to see some more on this one, figures look sharp.

Build how you like, like how you build.

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Old 03-10-2009, 08:37 AM
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Ropi Ropi is offline
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Szeged, Hungary
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Hi Mattias! Great looking Sd, also the dio plan looks great!
(PS.: how did he die?)

Best regards: Arthur
There is no kill like overkill.

The Music
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:55 AM
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Totenhosen Totenhosen is offline
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Glad to see you're back with an update. I was (and still am) really watching this!
"Nice f**kin model!"

- Beetlejuice
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:00 AM
jagdpanzer jagdpanzer is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 413
What did you use for sculpting the additional stuff like the blanket?
Everthing looks so smooth.

eep it up, Manuel
join my plastic-bbq
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:58 PM
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Paccus Paccus is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SW of Stockholm
Posts: 109
Thanks guys, I'm glad to be back on track with this one.

In a duel with an enemy tank a round hit the Pak-shield on the upper right side. It also hit the loader, working behind the shield, removing a part of his head.
If you look at the first page in this thread, the damage to the shield is more evident.

I use Magic Sculp, and to make it smooth and less sticky I use skin lotion. The lotion is absorbed by the MS so it doesn't get greasy. I usually prime the figures without washing them first, and it hasn't been any problems yet.

/ Mattias Larsson
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:03 PM
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alanmac alanmac is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 228
Hi Mattias

Great workmanship. I've loved reading through this thread and seeing all the development pictures and looking at the great results you achieve, Both your model finishing and figure work is outstanding with a great eye for detail and composition.

If I may I'd just like to say that looking at the last few shots of the diorama scene as a whole I wonder about the roof height on the building. To me it seems very large. I don't mean it's out of scale, I just feel it's size does tend to distract the eyes away from the grouping below. Wondered if the scene would look better if this was reduced in area/height? Hope you don't mind my comment.

Looking forward to the next update.

All the best

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Old 03-10-2009, 07:43 PM
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RickLawler RickLawler is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,092
Well, it's about time!

Excellent work with the figures and the church. Glad to have you back.


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