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  #81  
Old 10-19-2009, 08:51 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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i know it should at least be plugged but my thought was that the earlier "standard" configured ones (riveted hull with exterior exhaust) may have actually used a plug instead of the hole just not being there. later when they were using the more common welded hulls, the hole was no longer present..... i may be totally wrong here, just figured they did it this way in the kit for a reason but i have nothing to really base that on.
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  #82  
Old 10-19-2009, 09:59 AM
38(t) 38(t) is offline
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I found a picture of a completed Stadtgas model and if you look closely at the back, the hole is covered by a tab like you said:

http://www.sockelshop.de/catalog/Ima...2/100_8597.jpg

I have no knowledge wether the early Marders with an exterior exhaust had this feature as well but that's because I'm no expert. If you want to replicate an early Marder, go for the tab!
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  #83  
Old 10-19-2009, 04:22 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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the kit itself is for the earlier riveted marders which initially had the interior exhaust and additional rear mud guards..... they may have just plugged the hole as shown until they updated to the welded version and then did away with the hole altogether. so anyone out there have the newer kit? curious if that plug is included and if someone that doens't need it might want to help me out......
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  #84  
Old 11-11-2009, 09:20 AM
Gnat Gnat is offline
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Hi Chad,

Greetings from Memphis

I just restarted this same kit. Not doing it quite to your level. The reason I started it in the first place was the goofy looking Stadtgas tanks and the fact that they had "student driver" signs hung on it. Made me laugh...anyway.

Great build by the way!

I found this build when I went looking for radio help. Just like you, I found it confusing.

Can't wait for the end keep going

David
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  #85  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:25 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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Hey David, good to hear from you. Yea the radio bit is a little confusing for sure but I think the info in this blog is correct. If you need any kind of reference pics, I have quite a few on my pc of different parts of this thing. I'm not actually using the external fuel tanks, just thought I'd build this one instead of the tamiya one to see how they stack up. The Cyber Hobby one seems to be better details not to say that the Tamiya kit isn't a good one but this is as good if not better. Hard to find references for these early ones but most don't have unit markings or anything anyway so it's kinda open to interpretation. I suppose now that you've brought this back to the top of the forum list I'll have to post a follow up with some progress pics. I have put several filters on the fighting compartment along with some oil fading and an initial wash. I'm in the progress of picking out the worn areas with some lightened base colored enamels. Slow going but I supposed it would be worth an update. I'd love to see some pics of where you're at with yours.

Also, as to my previous posts regarding the plug on the rear plate. A very nice gentleman from Australia sent me a replacement that he was not using so that issue has been resolved.
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  #86  
Old 11-11-2009, 08:14 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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So I've been a bit pre-occupied as of late but I have been putting in some work on the Marder and since my buddy posted and brought my build back to the front page, I felt obliged to at least share where I'm at. So after my last post I picked out the major detail elements with various humbrol enamels. Lots of the stuff is still just base coated and hasn't been addressed so don't be too hard on me just yet. By the way, painting that radio amongst all that other stuff without getting paint on anything was a real chore. Once I had everything in it's base color, I started in with the filters. I used Sin filters (4) starting with P400 Grey followed by P241 Brown and 2 applications of P242 Tan. These work great and I believe were the first items ordered from MIG USA! After the filters, I applied a coat of turpenoid and mixed in 4 or 5 different shades of oils for a little more variation in tone. I did some very light local washes of dust color (probably wasting time since I'll use pigments but I figured why not). I have also put on some localized washes of raw umber around many of the details. The next step which I've only started, is picking out the scratches and worn areas starting with the base colored ones. For this I also use humbrol enamel. I've only started with the rear and "tailgate" and a little bit on the floor and bulkhead section. This is pretty faint which is the idea. I didn't want a stark contrast between the actual base color and what I was trying to portray as a surface scratch. Havn't touched the fighting compartment sides so they are obviously rather "clean" still. Once I finish with this, I'll continue with some dark scratches and some rust here and there, etc....... This is the really slow part but with this model I can focus on one section at a time easier than most since it's still in so many pieces. I picked up some pe fenders from lion roar so we'll see how that goes. My first experience with them. I'm relatively pleased at this stage as things are becoming a bit more "real" in appearance with each successive layer. It seems that the scratches really start to give some depth to an otherwise lifeless model. Feel really good with the tarps for the ammo as I was a bit worried at one time how they were going to turn out but I think they look pretty good. Anyway, enough of my yappin, on with the pics.




Again, I've only really started with the wear process but this will give you a good idea of what I'm trying to do. I also drybrushed (yes I said drybrushed) a little bit more noticeably on the floor where you can see where the crew would stand. This will be scratched up more with the next stage with some other paints and ultimately some graphite but again, trying to take my time and build this up gradually. While I was in the drybrushing mood, I messed with the radio and the MG just a bit with a light brushing of humbrol silver and black mixed. Started looking pretty decent but I'm not finished with it and the speaker needs the same treatment.




So anyway, that's all I got for the moment.
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  #87  
Old 11-12-2009, 08:50 AM
Flak Flak is offline
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Looks really nice...
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  #88  
Old 11-23-2009, 09:52 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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Still pluggin away at the scratches and what not but I think I'm just about finished with the base color ones. I wanted to make a lot of these since it's just light scratches and I'll try to be more restrained when I start in with the darker rusty type colors. All done with Humbrol enamels with brushes and some sponging. I've tried to get the lighting right on these pics but it's still very hard to see some of the scratches which again, is ok since they are only supposed to be light scratches anyway but they are a bit more noticeable in real life. For example, on the last pic u can only barely make out the horizontal scratches on the ammo bins. I'll start the darker ones soon. I find it's better for me to do this step slowly in pieces or I tend to get carried away. Lots let to do yet but I can check another step off the list so progress has been made. After the other darker scratches, I'll finish up the detail painting on the equipment and then go in with some pigments. As always, love to hear your comments.







I have put off painting the breach parts and the slide because I'm nervous about it. If anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it. I've been experimenting with several ideas and the best looking thus far is just to paint the slide pieces black and then generously apply graphite, as for the breach insert (i have no idea what this is called) i'm still unsure how to tackle this. Just painting it silver doesn't sound very good.
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  #89  
Old 11-24-2009, 06:11 AM
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Stuke Sowle Stuke Sowle is offline
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Looking very nice Chad. Love the subtle scratches.
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  #90  
Old 11-24-2009, 06:43 AM
Flak Flak is offline
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Great work on the model, as well as the pictures
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