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  #21  
Old 08-21-2010, 02:37 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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Zimmerit is made with tamiya two part polyester putty applied with a my x-acto blade and raked with the tamiya rakes size .5. It's pretty straight forward but this stuff dries kinda fast so you have to get going pretty quick after you spread it on but it's the perfect consistency for raking. Doesn't stick to the rake and lift while you're working it. Pretty strong smelling but I can get past that. Just smear some on kinda half way evenly and rake it on. Simple as that. Glad you like it Can't wait to do the turret shurtzen with the herring bone all the way around.....
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  #22  
Old 08-25-2010, 08:51 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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Update....

Been working on this pretty hard this week but it's slow going thus far. First things first, I solved the workable suspension issue with a little bit of old fashioned chopping and sawing.

Essentially, I just removed the small tabs from each individual suspension component and then hollowed out the suspension arm where the small tab would have gone to allow it to flow freely up to the bump stops. Sounds ominous but once you put on the covers, it works just like the old dragon workable suspension kits did. I have the Tristar panzer IV suspension kit but after looking at the parts and the kit, it just didn't seem like the way to go. Glad I was able to make it work this way cause now at least I'm sure that the wheels will line up correctly.

Next step was to start on the fenders as this will be the biggest job on the lower hull aside from the shurtzen which is always good times. The fender install requires the removal of the lip molded along the bottom of the hull sides and in the rear, you have to remove quite a bit of detail. The brackets that mate the upper and lower hull have to be completely removed but the replacement parts are really nice and it goes together just like the real thing with the lower part serving as the fender support. I hate shaving off detail in restricted space but it turned out ok after lots of sanding. Anyway, I want to beat this thing up pretty good if I'm going to be using all this brass so I'm going for one banged up fender and will likely have the front section of the other one torn off completely. Just looks meaner that way. The rear fenders are pretty easy to put together (I shouldn't say that since I've only put one together so far!) and I gave them the typical downward/outward bend. The only trick to these was to solder the tiny wire on the inside edge. That was a bit of fun.
They (Griffon) actually give you springs to use for the fenders, jack block, etc. but they are a tad oversized IMO which is a shame cause they are really nicely done. Made my own from wire.


If you look there at the 3rd idler station you'll see the soldering gun got a little close..... Don't think it will be a problem as the idler should cover it completely but I had to drill it out since it melted shut. Gotta watch that soldering gun around the plastic!
Up front is where the fun begins.

wanted to look like I ran it into a tree......

I removed as much of the guts of the light as I could and the Griffon set gives you the ring for the front and a ring for the inside where the wires would have come out. Used some of the smallest wire I could find for the wires. Obviously they are too big but you do what you can......




I've started working on the other fender and few other bits here and there just to break it up but I'll update again once the other side is on. The Griffon stuff is pretty good for the most part but I went ahead and ordered some Aber tool clasps just because they are superior to these. Griffon sometimes tries to make it too easy and makes party have multiple bends just to avoid using two or three separate parts. The clasps really suffer as a result so I'm not going to use them. The fenders are really nice though and I like the way they are designed, makes for a fairly easy install.

Anyway, that's all for now. As always, love to hear your guys thoughts and/or advice. Thanks for looking
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  #23  
Old 08-27-2010, 09:13 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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I believe I have lost the .018 punch from my waldron set. Anyone have any thoughts on what I could do? I use this thing all the time and the next size up is just too big IMO. Anyone know of a source for some brass rod in that size? Thought maybe I could try that. These sets are like $100 at GreatModels and that sux to have to buy the whole thing for one tiny little piece of metal......
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  #24  
Old 08-27-2010, 10:07 PM
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lupanzer lupanzer is offline
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...very nice!...

Hi Chad!

...it's incridible!...I'm building a Pz IV almost like yours...belive me, the same model and P.E. parts...but with a little diference...the mine is being done at the South Pole...belive it's true!

...soon I'll start posting it with the folowing title:Maybe...the Southermost Pz being done......

...about yours:...superb assembly job...a terrific Zimm...and i love the damaged fender...all in all a great project...please keep posting...following it with a big interest!

All the best!

Luiz.
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  #25  
Old 08-28-2010, 12:24 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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The south pole hey? Doubt there are many being built down there that's for sure. Post it man, the more of us building these at the same time the easier it is...... Been doing a bit of soldering tonight just on random stuff, mostly the shurtzen brackets. These things take forever! I have done 3 of them but it took me 2 hours.... Also have the other fender put together just not on the model and not damaged yet, still thinking about that one...... Got the barrel cleaning rods all put together tonight in the brackets, that was pretty cool. The Griffon set gives you the hollow rods to trim to the correct length. Looks nice. I'll get some more pics up soon.
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  #26  
Old 08-28-2010, 02:49 AM
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gibsonfndr gibsonfndr is offline
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A pleasure for the eye indeed !
So good i had to nitpick ... so I saw one BIG mistake !
well ... not so big but here it is :



1- this little part used to fix the track links should be moved one link to the left.

(sorry ... I couldn't help notice it ! )

as for #2, I was about to sue you, when I saw these "bumps" were in fact seen on Auf Gs (which I didn't know so I learned something from you !) ... as yours is an early H there is a "reasonnable doubt" so you can walk out free.



Yet this little "bumper" can be imporved if you whish to ...
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  #27  
Old 08-28-2010, 08:09 AM
Flak Flak is offline
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Superb Great work always.
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  #28  
Old 08-28-2010, 08:56 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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OOPS.... right you are! Must have looked at it so long I couldn't see it..... The spare track bracket was glued on to the tracks before I put it on the tank and I guess I had in my mind facing the track the other way or something. Good eye, will get corrected asap. As for the bumpers..... I have no real way to verify with my references as to whether they should be there or not so I'm just sticking with the G hull theme and letting them ride along.
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  #29  
Old 08-28-2010, 10:56 PM
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armor fiend armor fiend is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadperkins View Post
Been working on this pretty hard this week but it's slow going thus far. First things first, I solved the workable suspension issue with a little bit of old fashioned chopping and sawing.

Essentially, I just removed the small tabs from each individual suspension component and then hollowed out the suspension arm where the small tab would have gone to allow it to flow freely up to the bump stops. Sounds ominous but once you put on the covers, it works just like the old dragon workable suspension kits did. I have the Tristar panzer IV suspension kit but after looking at the parts and the kit, it just didn't seem like the way to go. Glad I was able to make it work this way cause now at least I'm sure that the wheels will line up correctly.
Would love to see how you did that. I also have the Tristar kit, and because the G I just got off of eBay has the running gear already done (badly, and with a very heavy had for the glue) 'm not sure it can be rescued, but it would be worth a shot. The Tristar gear, however, is the correct width for the 36cm tracks, not the 40cm tracks (the Tamiya H similarly has the wrong sized wheels). I'd like to have workable running gear.

BTW, the DML bump stops' vertical braces are too thick. The Tristar are the correct size. But I've already used them on my F2, so I'll just be thinning the DML ones out.

Also, notice that the hubs for the bogies are different.

Last edited by armor fiend; 08-28-2010 at 11:13 PM.
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  #30  
Old 08-29-2010, 03:54 AM
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gibsonfndr gibsonfndr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadperkins View Post
OOPS.... right you are! Must have looked at it so long I couldn't see it..... The spare track bracket was glued on to the tracks before I put it on the tank and I guess I had in my mind facing the track the other way or something. Good eye, will get corrected asap. As for the bumpers..... I have no real way to verify with my references as to whether they should be there or not so I'm just sticking with the G hull theme and letting them ride along.
You know how it goes, these bumpers are seen on E-F-Gs and are not there any more on mid-prod Hs so the question is "when did they disappear ?".
I haven't got any answer yet ...
LOL.
Just leave them there ... improve them if you feel like it.
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