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  #31  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:31 PM
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alexwencho alexwencho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus View Post
nice one tony! Never thought about them before.
Arthur,
tony is speaking about those pins:
they are very cheap and sturdy plus the benefit of the "head", which looks better than just a piece of wire in a hole.
"holy pin cusion batman!"
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  #32  
Old 02-22-2011, 06:54 AM
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WillysJeep WillysJeep is offline
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Thanks for the comments everyone and for the track suggestions, Andy and Tony. I will try out the suggestions and post a side by side comparison to see what works and looks best.

(Tony your track looks great.)

Those roadwheels are strange, I will fill in the holes as I can't see that they serve any purpose either.

Hopefully I will update by the end of the week.

Tim
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  #33  
Old 02-22-2011, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillysJeep View Post
Thanks for the comments everyone and for the track suggestions, Andy and Tony. I will try out the suggestions and post a side by side comparison to see what works and looks best.

(Tony your track looks great.)

Those roadwheels are strange, I will fill in the holes as I can't see that they serve any purpose either.

Hopefully I will update by the end of the week.

Tim
Looking forward to the update.
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  #34  
Old 02-24-2011, 06:09 PM
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Comparison of Staple & Pins

Links on the right secured with staples.

Links on the left secured with 0.6mm steel dressmaking pins.





Compare with the real track here http://jtrowbridge5.smugmug.com/PANT...54067429_fSxx4

Do you think the pin heads are too large? I can post more photos if necessary.

I have found 0.5mm pins on ebay, which should have a slightly smaller head.

I've just discovered that, like Tony's, my set of Friul tracks are not handed like they should be. Both packets contain the same links.

Tim

Last edited by WillysJeep; 02-24-2011 at 06:11 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-24-2011, 08:44 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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just out of curiosity, since this is a mover... how are you planning to fix the pins so they won't come out?
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  #36  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:36 PM
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Awesome!

Awesome!
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  #37  
Old 06-02-2011, 05:40 PM
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Update

A few photos showing the recent progress I have made on the Panther.

I have only been able to make a little progress here and there so no major changes yet.



Progress on the turret. I have fitted a RB Models MG34 barrel tip for the co-axial machine gun.




I have drilled out around the co-axial MG using reference photos as a guide. Note the main barrel is not secured in place yet.




Turret and mantlet mounted on hull. Note that I have enlarged the "U" shape cutout below the driver's periscope using the Panzer Tracts drawings as a guide.

It looks a little rough from this angle as it hasn't been filled in behind yet. It does look smooth when viewed from the front.




View inside the turret showing the magnet attached to the turret motor shaft. This controls barrel elevation.

I have also attached the Nahverteidigungswaffe (close-in defense weapon) on the roof. I still need to blend the mantlet into the turret.




Dry fit of Aber's etched mesh screens.

Note that I have drilled out the bolt heads on the rear of the engine deck as they weren't molded properly. (See photo below) I will use etched bolt heads to replace the molded ones.

I have also removed the four bolt heads around the aerial base. There should only be three. I have attached the replacement bolts but I knocked two off with handling the upper hull.




Unmodified kit hull.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chadperkins View Post
just out of curiosity, since this is a mover... how are you planning to fix the pins so they won't come out?
Chad, I plan to use either Gator's Grip or CA glue behind the pin head to secure the pins. I will experiment with both glues on a few of the links, that have air holes, to see which is best.

I have purchased some 0.53 diameter pins which have a noticeably smaller head than the 0.6 ones in the track photos above.

Regarding the tracks, I contacted Friulmodel about the tracks not being handed. I had a response that the Friul links are only one sided. This is annoying as the real panther tracks are different. I will experiment on some of the links, that have air holes, by drilling them all the way through, plugging the end with putty and inserting the pin from the other side to make the tracks handed.

Thanks for looking, more updates as soon as I am able to make some more progress.

Tim

Last edited by WillysJeep; 06-03-2011 at 09:33 AM.
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  #38  
Old 02-23-2012, 02:50 PM
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Etch Work

Its been a while since I updated this build. After an enforced break from modelling recently, due to ill health and moving house and country in the summer, my time has been taken up with other things. It was good to get back at my workbench.

I have been working on Aber etch sets for the Panther recently. It's just bent to shape at the moment so excuse the gaps and finger marks.

I annealed the etch over a candle and shaped the etch over the kit track guards. I left the parts in vinegar for a while to clean them up.



I used a ball point pen to make the lines and domes, pressing onto a cork coaster.



I used the brass tube to help curve the end cap.



I started working on the cleaning rod stowage tube and I found that the brackets that hold the tube in place didn't match up to the Panzer Tracts book.

I successfully modified one of the brackets but I snapped off a piece of the other as the incorrectly etched fold line gave way. Looking through the etch frets for the Panther I found that the fret that contains parts for the periscopes was the correct width and had sufficient length to be used as a replacement. I used a pair of multi purpose titanium scissors (think of a swiss army penknife but it is a pair of scissors that includes rope cutter, wirecutter, bottle opener and titanium scissor blade) that I had for Christmas to cut the fret to size. I was pleased with the results and it will definitely come in handy for cutting brass and wire.

I used the modified Aber part as a guide for folding the replacement bracket using my hold and fold "bug" and formed it around the tube.

Aber Instructions showing how the original part (6) looked.




Compare it to the Panzer Tracts drawing. I still need to file down the top right angle on my replacement bracket as it is a little long. Strangely the bracket and clamp for the wreaking bar stored on outside of the tube are not included in the set, but are in the 1/16 version.



The modified Aber part (top bracket) and replacement bracket made from a piece of etch fret.



I've also found that an Aber part for the crew heater is upside down. It's correctable but annoying.

I will post more when I am able.

Thanks for looking, comments welcome.

Tim
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  #39  
Old 03-01-2012, 10:47 AM
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Wow, coming along nice. This will probaby be the best-detailed 1:35 R/C tank ever built!
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  #40  
Old 03-01-2012, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for your comment Andy.

I hope it will be, but there is still lots of work to be done. I'm scratch building a new drivers periscope mount at the moment, as the kit one is undersized.

Tim
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