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  #11  
Old 10-05-2007, 11:09 AM
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Nice choice of subject Rick.

This is one of those tanks you don't see very often and even less in white. Im sure this will be one more wonderful build.

Dave
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2007, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arhad View Post
Hey Rick,

is this vehicle really Ausf. J ? I think , this is PzKpfw III Ausf. M !!!
Stop the building and look at the differences beetwen this versions - in red ring on the photo :

1) smoke grenade launchers on the turret
2) front plate for version Ausf. M
3) light on the fender
4) deleted vision port on the turret

Arhad

PS - sorry, I canīt upload the photo - Donīt know why ?

I think it may well be an Ausf. J
Like so many German tanks I think there were features of one variant that may have shown up on other variantss in the same type. The key clue for me in the color plate is the lack of the exhaust system that was a prominent feature of the Ausf. M
Also, if you look at the vehicles for which the DML kit provides the decals you see many features usually associated with later variants like the spaced armor on the upper hull front and the gun mantlet. Just my $.02
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  #13  
Old 10-05-2007, 02:48 PM
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RickLawler RickLawler is offline
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Quote:
Do you know if the tank in the photo you posted has smoke grenade launchers on the turret? It's hard to tell, but something is in that general area.
Quote:
Hey Rick,

is this vehicle really Ausf. J ? I think , this is PzKpfw III Ausf. M !!!
Stop the building and look at the differences beetwen this versions
Hey guys, thanks for the interest. Well, I guess that it is not as clear as I had hoped?! Perhaps the color plate was mis-identified?

As for the smoke gredade launchers, the photos does seem to indicate them. ( though not shown on the color plate)...other clearer photos of other vehicles from the group clearly show that some did have launchers.....luckily I have a set in my spares box if I decide to show them.

Quote:
I think it may well be an Ausf. J
Like so many German tanks I think there were features of one variant that may have shown up on other variantss in the same type. The key clue for me in the color plate is the lack of the exhaust system that was a prominent feature of the Ausf. M
Also, if you look at the vehicles for which the DML kit provides the decals you see many features usually associated with later variants like the spaced armor on the upper hull front and the gun mantlet.
Perhaps this may explain part of the variants confusion...but the color plate seems to offer different features from those featured in the DML kit...hum!

As you stated, DML offers decals for specific vehicles, one being #556 from the LSAH.....here is a photo of vehicle #555....



Perhaps the solution is just to change vehicles and divisions.

My intention is still to do a basically OOTB build, if I'm able to represent a specific vehicle then so much the better as it would breing an added level of interest to the project.

Quote:
It also looks like from the photo that the area covered in whitewash was significantly less than in the color plate you posted
Yep, and this is the part of this project that I'm most looking forward to...the painting and weathering. I've never really done a winter scheme before, so I'm hoping to try some new painting and weathering ideas on this one....

Once again I'm so very impressed by the calibre of people who participate on Planet Armor...it's inspiring!

Thanks guys,
Rick
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  #14  
Old 10-05-2007, 09:14 PM
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This is an interesting subject to say the least. (There seems to be a shortage of Panzer III's around here.) If you pull this out like you did with the M2 it will be another winner for sure.

Ruben
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  #15  
Old 10-06-2007, 08:05 AM
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I got this kit too..look forward to seeing your build I will follow your build too
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  #16  
Old 10-06-2007, 01:13 PM
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So, with a little more research, I finally believe that I've settled upon the reference for this build. This will be truely OOTB as I found a photo* of vehicle #556 for which the kit provides decals for.



Thanks again for all the enthusiasm and help,

rick

* photo from SS Armor - a pictorial history of the armored formations of the waffen-ss, by Robert C. Stern, Squadron/Signal pg.27
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  #17  
Old 10-07-2007, 05:42 AM
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Rick,
that one looks great - glad you changed, as the previous was an L.
I 've got this kit at home and will be picking up another from Peter B. to use as a conversion base. This is a really nice kit and you have picked a great subject.
Good Luck.
This might help the paint.
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Last edited by brokeneagle; 10-07-2007 at 06:01 AM.
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  #18  
Old 10-07-2007, 08:17 AM
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Rick,
that one looks great - glad you changed,
Yes, the "Force" seems right in the Universe now, sometimes I try too hard to be unique when the obvious, easiest solution is the best solution.

Quote:
This might help the paint.
Ian, you are a champ! This indeed helps the paint and also clarify some of the rear deck cargo...

thanks,
rick
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  #19  
Old 10-07-2007, 12:03 PM
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This was posted on some other website. As I have not put these tweaks to the test I can only offer them up tentatively- I hope the help you avoid any difficulties.
Quote:
Subject: DML PZ III J Build Notes List thread.

Date: Sep 29, 2007
From: Eric Scurlock
I’m in the process of building this fine model and I thought I’d post a few notes on construction. It’s a fantastic kit, superior to Tamiya’s excellent PZ III L in just about every way except the instructions. I still have a lot of nit-noyd things to do but the basic build is done. Here are some observations that may help other modelers on this kit.
Beware of grey marked versus blue marked sprues. This kit comes with two A sprues, two B sprues etc. Some are from the StuG G kit, others are clearly PZ III sprues made for this and future PZ IIIs. Also, sometimes the instructions have black lettering (designating a grey labeled sprue) when the lettering should be blue or vice-versa.
Ignore the kit instructions when building this kit. Major assemblies are a tricky build on it so you want to build the frame first then add the details. Otherwise you’ll surely brake parts trying to get this thing together.
I recommend building in these steps.

1. Build the basic suspension as depicted in steps 2 and 3 first. Do not install the fender supports at this time (A5, A21, A50, A51). Getting these lined up correctly is tricky so you want to wait until you have the fenders on before gluing these in place. Also note that the picture is right for support A50(A51) but the numbering is reversed. Go with the picture. The correct placement of parts A50 and A 51 is best depicted in the instructions in step 14 at the bottom right hand part of the page (although the numbers are still revered)!

2. Install the muffler and frame parts as described in step four. There’s also a cover that should be installed at this time. The cover is shown already installed. It is part B (grey) 29. Do not use fast drying cement on the frames such as Tenax 7R on this step. You’ll want to be able to make minor adjustments to the framework when installing it in the next step. Ignore the rest of the instructions for now.

3. Skip step 5 for now.

4. Install the smoke candles as described in step 6. Install the rear plates B15 and B30 and B2 (blue) as depicted in step 6. Be careful not to install grey B28 instead of blue B2. The instructions correctly label B2 as the part to install but depict part B28. Personally I have rivets to shave and reinstall.

5. Build the idler wheel arms as depicted in step one and install as depicted in step 5. Ignore the idler wheels for now. Install the idler arm covers onto the hull sides after you install the idler arms, not directly onto the idler arms as depicted in step one. I may be wrong but I believe the idler arm cover should be one piece. By gluing it in place with Tenax 7R you should be able to eliminate the seam where the hull side portion matches up to the portion molded onto the rear hull plate.

6. Clean up the left fender and install parts A54, A55, and A56 only. They’re a pain in the ar** to install once the fenders are in place so you should do it now. Ignore the rest for later.

7. Clean up the right fender and install parts A55, and A56 only. Ignore the rest for later.

8. Skip steps nine, ten, eleven and twelve for now. Assemble the machine gun and front plate as depicted in step 13. If you wish to install the interior parts on the superstructure side plates now is the time to do it. Ignore the antenna for now.

9. Install parts A14 and A15 as depicted in step 14.

10. Assemble the superstructure as depicted in step 14. Glue in place parts A58, A59, A60, and C4. Do not glue B13 to the superstructure yet. Actually you won’t need to glue B13 to A59 at all, but at the least hold off until you’ve got the fenders on.

11. Install parts B9 (blue) as depicted in step 14 and part D11(grey) which is not in the instructions at all. I recommend Tenax 7R for all large assemblies.

12. Install the fenders as depicted in step 14. Be careful here. Mine ended up so ever slightly upturned. I strapped the fenders down with rubber bands overnight but there is still a slight upturn to them.

13. Install the superstructure and engine deck as depicted in step 14.

14. Now to the turret. Perform steps 16 and 17. Be careful to install parts D20 and D7 to the barrel and insert the barrel into the recuperator housing (I think that’s what it’s called) before gluing E9 to E11. Having built a couple of Tamiya kits I glued E9 and E11 together first which caused be quite a bit of trouble. Fortunately I’m building this vehicle “closed coffin” so no harm done.

15. Install internal components as depicted in steps 20 and 21. The correct location of D8 which the instructions ask you to install in step 21 is depicted in step 22. Install parts G6 and G5 as depicted in step 22 before installing D15 as depicted in step 21.

16. Assemble the turret as depicted in step 22. This is pretty much straight forward. Just be sure to install the bottom of the turret before you install the front turret plate.

17. Now go back to the beginning of the instructions and fill in all the details.

The kit is beautiful but the instructions were a bit confusing. I hope these note help out other builders of this fine kit.
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  #20  
Old 10-07-2007, 06:56 PM
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Rick, If you can, please compare this model to Tamiya's "L"-not the same type, but very simuliar. I imagine that it knocks the Tamiya kit out of the water. Dan
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