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  #131  
Old 05-13-2009, 06:03 PM
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Scott,

Thanks for the great primer on using Humbrol paints. It has gone much better since I switched to white spirits that I got at Hobby Lobby! I need to get over to the drug store to get the syringe.

Michael
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  #132  
Old 05-13-2009, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greybeard View Post
I start by thinning my paint at least 50%, mix just as much as I will use so I have nothing left to dispose of. I don't like putting it back in the tin, just in case.
Whenever I have leftover paint, I practice on one of a couple old models I keep next to the paint bench--spraying fine lines, dots, circles, filling in outlined areas, blending, etc., etc.

carry on,
Curtis
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  #133  
Old 05-13-2009, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
1. Under reduction and/or air pressure too low.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greybeard View Post
I will disagree with James about air pressure.
Scott, sorry it seems you misunderstood my reference to air pressure, I guess I wasn't clear enough in my explanation
- it was a general comment not a specific analysis of the setting that was used in this case- (I believe 20 psi.) Air pressure is important but I adjust it, depending on the job needed to be executed from 12psi to 60psi.

I have tried using a syringe to get paint from the tin but it is too much bother and the waste led me to abandoning this technique. Instead I use a small medium brush to get enough paint from the Humbrol tin, dipping it in and soaking up a brush load of well mixed paint. This is transferred, quickly, before it drips, to the waiting silver cup attached to my airbrush. Once I have enough paint, it may take a couple of dips, I then add my thinner in the cup and stir with the brush to get as much paint into solution as possible. Later I use the same brush too clean the cup and airbrush with lacquer thinner. Thus killing two birds with one stone. You need good ventilation, (I spray my cleaner out the bedroom window!) as this stuff is toxic. (I also use pipe cleaners to clean the shaft were the needle inhabits and clean after every use.)

I also use ball bearings as Scott says although I find they are more trouble than they are worth, now, I usually use a stir stick ripped off from Starbucks or some such to mix and stir the contents of the tin. Doing it this way one can "feel" if there are any solids stuck on the bottom of the container. Also in conjunction with the above description of using a brush to transfer paint from a Humbrol tin to the airbrush, I use the said brush to give the paint a good stir before getting a load. Mixing is important with any paint, and well worth the effort to take the time to do it right. As mentioned try not to get any thinner or thinned paint into the original tin of paint- it could cause it to harden. That is one thing I don't like about the Humbrol enamels- sometimes they form a skin and dry out for no apparent reason.
I often use those clear plastic dose cups that you see for distributing meds or Nyquil? They actually can stand lacquer thinners as well. The ones I get from the medical supply store anyhow.

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Last edited by James Tainton; 05-13-2009 at 08:38 PM.
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  #134  
Old 05-13-2009, 08:34 PM
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James,

Instead of ball bearings, I usually use .17 caliber pellets from my air rifle, just because I have thousands of them. I haven't used them with the Humbrol, because the tin is easy enough to stir with a toothpick or coffee stirrer. I too am guilty of taking them from America's favorite over priced coffee vendor. I use them a lot with Model Master paints, because the shape of the bottle and the neck make it hard to get into corners.

OK, enough talk, I am off to put my next coat of paint on the camo.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Michael
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  #135  
Old 05-13-2009, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Tainton View Post
Scott, sorry it seems you misunderstood my reference to air pressure, I guess I wasn't clear enough in my explanation
- it was a general comment not a specific analysis of the setting that was used in this case- (I believe 20 psi.) Air pressure is important but I adjust it, depending on the job needed to be executed from 12psi to 60psi.
I work at the lower end of the scale, old habits from old equipment, maybe. I have replaced my old Binks, but it could only get 15 psi on a very windy day. "Gently" is the important part, however one gets there.

Quote:
I have tried using a syringe . . . I use a small medium brush . . .
I also use ball bearings . . . now, I usually use a stir stick . . .
Mixing is important with any paint . . .
I guess I overlooked the obvious. This could be Tip#3. I have a small screwdriver that is part of my paint stuff. It opens tins and works great for digging out globs of paint and breaking them up, and in a pinch I can use it to dismantle my airbrush.

The bearings only help keep the paint mixed. There are two benefits: with them, shaking for 30 seconds does as much work as 3 minutes without. Also, shaking the cans vigorously for 60 seconds every six months keeps the paint happy for years. If it settles out, its back to breaking up lumps, but no big deal. Paint is expensive these days, so it's worth the effot.

Finally, I choose steel bearings over pellets or BBs because they are high-quality steel, not pot metal or some other substance, so the chance of accidental contamination is nil.

Cheers
Scott
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  #136  
Old 05-13-2009, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by greybeard View Post
The bearings only help keep the paint mixed. There are two benefits: with them, shaking for 30 seconds does as much work as 3 minutes without. Also, shaking the cans vigorously for 60 seconds every six months keeps the paint happy for years. If it settles out, its back to breaking up lumps, but no big deal. Paint is expensive these days, so it's worth the effot.
Well I just stir the paint with the paint brush prior to each refill of the airbrush cup. Takes no time at all. No need to put the lid on or anything fancy like that. I expect we all develop a method that works for us.
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  #137  
Old 05-16-2009, 05:45 PM
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I am totally over the hump using the Humbrol. It has been going on beautifully since I started thinning with the "gentler" Mineral Spirits. I do, however, still hate the cans, as it is really hard to get the last bit of paint out of the tin.

Anyway, here is where I am in the process...





I think I am going to have to go back and spray dunkelgelb over the camo where the fender is missing. Thoughts?

It is amazing what you see in pictures that you don't see when you are looking at the model. I have a run on the left muffler guard that needs fixed!

What is a good next step in the process, other than putting on the tools and whatnot?

Michael
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  #138  
Old 05-25-2009, 12:52 AM
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First off, Happy Memorial Day to all the veterans!

I know it has been over a week since my last post, but lest you think I haven't been working....

Here are my tow cables attached



What is a good color to use for chipping and scratching that shows steel? I think Testors steel is too bright, almost chrome-like.

Michael
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  #139  
Old 05-28-2009, 11:57 PM
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Spare tracks and tow cables

I have been working more on weathering the spare tracks. I started by applying a lighter rust color and then moved to a darker rust color.


This is a coat of the darker rust pigement while it is still wet


And, this is how they look in their semi-finished condition. Using the brush to remove the pigment also resulted in the loss of some of the track horns that I will have to replace.


This is the first decal I put on. I was really curious how well I could get the decal to lay down over the zimmerit surface. I put a coat of MicroSol down first, and laid the decal into it last night.
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  #140  
Old 05-29-2009, 12:00 AM
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This is the current state of the exhaust stacks.


This is the box weathered and glued to the hull. What is in this box?


Lastly, here is one of the tow cables applied and weathered. Some of the pigment adhered to the surface of the hull when I brushed it off, but I think it will blend with the final weathering once I start with some washes on the hull surface.
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