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Old 06-20-2008, 09:17 PM
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DML Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf. C

This new release of one of the Third Reich's early Panzer is one one I have been anticipating and am very happy to have laid my mitts on one.
The artwork....




Here are the paint schemes suggested.






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Old 06-20-2008, 10:40 PM
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That your artwork? Cool tank too .
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Old 06-21-2008, 12:27 PM
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There are some good photos of this tank in the old Squadron book on the early panzers. Dan
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Old 06-27-2008, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coops View Post
That your artwork? Cool tank too .
Nope not my work-...but this guy is pretty good!

Here are some scans of the instruction sheets.










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Last edited by James Tainton; 06-27-2008 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 07-02-2008, 06:34 PM
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So an update here ;
these first four pics are pretty awful, but you'll get the idea. There are some issues that at this early phase of the build need to be addressed in this kit. One thing is while there is a new sprue that gives us a more accurate set of suspension arms, there is a seam that runs down the middle of the end cap of the leaf springs. You need to be very careful while removing this seam or it will mar the detail here. I kinda just wen hog wild and basically was looking at replacing the end caps with the redundant end cap pieces that come with my Panzer II/F kit from Dragon. The F kit comes with an incorrect set that was carried over from their previous Marder II kit. Now, I bought some after market replacements for the F kit so no worries using the end caps from the Marder parts. Only after I tried on I discovered that they are too wide. It would be a way to go, trimming the excess off the edges, but I opted to just go back and incise some end spring detail into the Panzer II/C parts. In the end that was acceptable. Another fix would be to fabricate an end piece with card and then cast a mold- but not on this build I guess.




In this shot I have added some of the bumper parts to the side. Also the back plate, which seemed a bit wide on my sample- needed to sand a bit off either side for it to get into place. Also added the tow pintle - which when looking at some refs appears to need some work to get the smooth sides shown in pics of the real thing.












Some of the thinking on how to get the parts together seems a little awkward to me - but then I don't design plastic molds for a living.
The front plate has two pieces on the side that need to be attached and then this goes onto the front of the hull tub. There are no attachment aids however, and some skills are needed to get everything to line up right. There seemed to be some inward leaning to the sides of the hull tub that made the fit difficult to achieve with the finesse of many of the more recent kits, such as the T-34~112 and Panzer IV kits. Still if care is taken it really shouldn't be a problem for anyone with any modicum of modelling skills.








Those curved parts should be flush with the sides of the hull.


The slight inward warp of the hull sides does not make this easily apparent or carelessly achieved. Some finesse will be required of the modeller, (not that I really have any!)

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Old 07-02-2008, 07:03 PM
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To help me with this task I decided to stray from the proscribed methodology suggested in the instruction sheet and took the front upper hull armour plate and glued it to the front parts already assembled. This will help with positioning the front bits.




In this pic- the front parts have been added, although I was still unsure as to whether the sides should all be flush. That light bulb would go on once I tried to position the two final drive covers. In any case this will be revisited, but for now a shot showing the suspension arms attached.




Here you can see the effort needed to get things to dry flush. Inside where you can't see are two pieces of wooden stir stick cut to the correct width of the interior hull width. These give the vice something to push the two curved pieces in line with.
The vise is holding the two curved bits flush with the reinforced hull sides. The two pieces of thick stir stick which the vise is actually pushing against make sure everything is flush.
It worked to a pretty good degree. Some minor sanding and filling will be needed but much of the joint is hidden by the final drive.




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Last edited by James Tainton; 07-02-2008 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:21 PM
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The kit comes with two versions of the front drive wheel- still have to research which to use.


The idler has three parts that fit together with no problem


and together


The final drives are pretty well detailed with some nice weld seams. Some bolt heads need to be cut from the G Sprue and added to the final drive, four for each piece.




Here I have assembled the two parts for each wheel together. An inner piece fits perfectly in the back of the road wheel.


I have added some damage to the tires- a new thing for me that I hope will add some authenticity to the final used look I have planned for the model.




The small return rollers all cleaned up. These wheels, like the bigger road wheels will be painted as separate items before they are glued to the main model.
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:24 PM
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Some of the parts for the driver's area on the interior.


Some shots of a partially assembled interior.


One funny thing to watch out for is to make sure before you glue the interior floor in place you need to drill out a placement ole from underneath that is for the back seat.The instructions do not mention this until later, after a previous Step has asked you to glue the floor down. So heads up Dudes!
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Old 07-04-2008, 08:29 AM
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so some pics of interior assemblies.






The visor parts- why the have to make these clear, except the glass bits, is beyond me- it is a little difficult to see the parts to glue them properly!


the upper hull parts








Remember when I mentioned that I use Auto glazing putty instead of any Green Stuff or whatever. Well check it out had to get a new tube today- and I'd say it is more that three times what you get in them Green Stuff tubes and it only cost $10.99 at Canadian Tire.


Front join sanded and the final drive cover in place


This shot shows the filled and sanded tow bracket. Still need to add two hex bolts that I had to remove. Also you can see a weld seam added using stretched sprue.




The transmission looks pretty good and is perfectly suitable for what will be seen through any hatches that maybe left open.


Just a quick test fit.
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Last edited by James Tainton; 07-05-2008 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 07-04-2008, 08:41 AM
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Because I like to paint these with some precision, I will not glue the floor into the tub till after its painted. I had to trim down a couple of ridges on the inside of the hull sides, so I can get it positioned properly later.




The inside wall partition coming together.




This will be painted out of the tub as well - this is just a look see test fit.
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