Old 11-03-2008, 03:27 AM
Jojjemannen Jojjemannen is offline
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Location: Sliema, Malta
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Originally Posted by RickLawler View Post
OuCh! Sorry, what a bummer!

...the good news is that your job if halfway done already..!
Hahaha, Yeah, that's for sure!

Originally Posted by RickLawler View Post
Please keep us updated...

I am a newbie you know !
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:11 PM
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majorchuck majorchuck is offline
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Posts: 114
happens all the time terpintine dangerus on enamil but use a stif brush and terp and prtend to dry brush , all that crap will come off , then dry over night then prime that work with commertial can prime read lable for plastice use and coat. the next day respray that subject.now speed of evap critical before wash is aply. set near heat soarce about 80 to85 deg f. alow model to warm the apply your wash .Next is important place in path of fan on low to evap thinner befor it starts to crincle the serface.you will see the thinners disapate almost instanly and oh yes use mineral spiritesfor enamel washes and isopropenal for groundup pastals good luck!
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:57 PM
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duckboy duckboy is offline
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Originally Posted by Jojjemannen View Post
I hope that anyone of you can give a quick diagnose by looking at the picture on what I did wrong.

Attachment 1756

I was able to lift huge chunks of the paint, all i one go.
I had this problem with a few of my kits as well, the problem turned out to be that I was not washing the release agent from the plastic before painting.

lesson learned= the first step with every kit is to always wash all the parts (on the sprues) in warm soapy water, rinse and dry.

the airbrushed acrylic paint seemed to sit ok on the model, but when i added the wash (oil paint and humbrol enamel thinner) it re-activated the release agent, and peeled everything off back to the plastic.
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:58 AM
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TigerAce TigerAce is offline
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where could i get future?and is that the brand name or what?
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:08 PM
Iain Hamilton Iain Hamilton is offline
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Posts: 24
Hopefully I can be of some help. I use a 25% of enamel color to 75% white spirit. This can be used to help accentuate recessed areas. In your initial post, you stated that you are using a 1 to 9 ratio? This will create a mix that is to thin for a wash. This ratio of 10% enamel color to 90% white spirit will give you a "Filter" This thinned ratio will give you a chance to change the tone of you base color and should be applied before a wash. If all of this sounds confusing, I would suggest to you to buy yourself a copy of MIG's most recent DVD appropriately named "WASHES, FADING AND OILS". Visit ak-interactive.com to pick up a copy. It is realy inexpensive and is a wealth of information. It may be the best money spent on learning a handful of processes that will help you for the rest of your modeling days!
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:54 PM
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Disastermaster Disastermaster is offline
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Order of Bottle

You have to alternate between water based washes and oil based washes. That way a protective layer (like future) sealer will not be needed.
If your subject is painted in acrylics then your first wash would be oil based and for the next wash you would use a water based wash. If your model is painted in enamel your first wash should be water based and the next one in a oil based medium..... back and forth, back and forth.

Check out

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