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  #21  
Old 12-28-2006, 12:46 AM
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Good evening everyone!

Thank you so much for the positive comments guys.

Quote:
Those collums look great!
I look forward to seeing more...
Btw... did you know Mig productions does a templeruin?
Yes, I had considered that set when I first thought of the idea but quickly dismissed it. I wanted all my columns complete and I need four of them. I didn’t wanted people looking at it and saying “Looks good, but that’s the MIG kit”. That way my temple would be unique; plus I have a bad and horrible habit. I like to scratch build as much as I can.

Well, today’s work concentrated on the steps of the temple. The plaster blocks were dry already and I was able to make a kind of mock up of how I wanted the steps. This gave me an idea of the dimensions. I have a base I had varnish a few months back and it worked perfectly so I am one step ahead there.





After I separated all the blocks I needed it was time to apply the weathering and damage effects. Basically all was done just like I did the columns. Using the rotor tool bit I rolled it by had, making sure it went along all the edges. I had to apply extra pressure on the flat sides to get an even texture.



After it was done, using a hobby knife, I made some random poke marks and broke off some larger bits. Looking at pictures of Greek temples I noticed that the blocks tend to be damaged much more at the edges and corners. So I took special care at these points.



After that was done I took the reverse (dull) edge of a hobby knife and scribed small random lines on some parts of the blocks. These would represent cracks in the stone blocks.



After I had a few blocks done I placed them together to see how they looked. I was happy with them.



Slowly one by one all the blocks were done. Once they were ready I went ahead and glued them to the wooden base. I placed a piece of waxed cardboard under the entire area the temple will cover to compensate for the terrain; otherwise the temple would look sunken into the ground and that was undesirable. I had to cut the blocks at the edges in order to compensate for the angles, but the nice thing about plaster is that it can be cut and sanded into shape easily . I also made two more column halves. I wanted to have extra drums to have them laying around on the ground.





Now the steps are done! The next thing to do is to get the temple floor done. I am partially using as reference for my temple the Temple of Selinonte in Sicily. As you can see from this photo, the floor has both larger stone tiles under the columns and smaller tiles along the porch.



For the large stone tiles I think I will use 1 x 1 inch plaster blocks. So I went ahead and did some casting. I will be allowing the plaster on these to dry overnight before I work on them tomorrow.



For the smaller tiles I wanted something that would look like random small stones. While I was thinking I remember that a friend of mine had done a diorama a few months back and he had made a rubber mold of some random stone floors. And the problem was solved! I will see if I can borrow the mold tomorrow and cast some pieces to test them out.

Until next time.

Keep Modeling!!

Dave
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  #22  
Old 12-28-2006, 04:57 AM
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Jan Peters Jan Peters is offline
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You are doing a great job Dave!
You're right about not using the Mig kit, building your own is muuuuch cooler

Jan
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  #23  
Old 12-28-2006, 12:09 PM
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THose blocks looks absolutly super! Excellent work!
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  #24  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:07 PM
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Hello Everyone!

Success!!!

I got the random stone molds and the sections worked. I am going to have to trim off the elongated stones at the edges, but they look a lot like the temple’s random stone floor. So I had to cast the mold twice to get enough pieces. Sadly I needed many more 1 x 1 blocks than the ones I made yesterday. So the work on the temple today consisted only of casting pieces. I will leave these to dry and keep going tomorrow.





Meanwhile while the plaster dried I started working on the tank. Even if I know I am going to do a lot of rebuilding I am not going for an ultra perfect detailing. I will correct the simplifications on the kit and I will build the interiors. Some sections of the interior will not be visible. For example there is no need to build and engine compartment as the back deck hatches will be closed. Sorry for all you "Wrench Head" guys
Inside the hull (Driver & RTO positions) I will build as many details as necesary in order to make sure the tank looks realistic while looking through the hatches.
The turret will receive the most attention as you will be able to remove it and look inside at the details. Also a lot more detail will be seen through the hatches.
With this is mind it is time to tackle the Beast!

I assembled the suspension and glued it to the bottom part of the hull.



Since this kit was meant to use batteries, it has all sorts of holes on the lower hull so you could secure the electric motor inside. I filled these with plastic and some putty.



Then I cleaned and glued the road wheels.



After they were glued I went around and using a hobby knife I made some small poke marks on the rubber (On about one in every 4 wheel).
This represents an interesting detail and often overlooked by many modelers. What happens is that small stones tend to get trapped between the tracks and the road wheel as the tank rides along, causing the rubber on them to chip and crack. This is hard to see in photographs and even in museum models since usually the museum staff tries hard to find parts in good condition.
But is not uncommon for a road wheel in an armored vehicle to have chips along the edges or to have rocks embedded in the rubber!



Road Wheel on a US M18


On a Panzer III




One thing I noticed about the road wheels is that the hubcaps are incorrect. The hubcaps are smooth while the hubcaps provided for the two spares are molded correctly. Here are the two for comparison.



Using a small drill bit I drilled the holes in the hubcaps. Then I cut small discs out of a 0.5mm plastic rod and used them to simulate the bolts.



Here they are again, this time corrected.




Well that is all for today. Hopefully tomorrow I will finish the temple floor.

Until next time.

Model on

Dave
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  #25  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:38 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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Hi- nice work on the diorama bits. As for the road wheel covers... just for comparisons sake here are the ones in the Tristar Panzer IV/D set.


They are available in this seperate kit from Tristar. Might be an upgrade you might consider. I know you won't want to do it , just sayin'
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Last edited by James Tainton; 12-28-2006 at 10:00 PM.
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  #26  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:41 PM
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Hi Dave,

How did I miss this...nice progress...and great work on the block!
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  #27  
Old 12-28-2006, 10:00 PM
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Hi Dave, not to rain on the parade any more than I already have-the other thing is that those type of hubs that you are using were only used on and after the Panzer IV/E. For you to portray accurate Pz. IV/D road wheels, you would need to have these older, more proud hub caps. They are in the set from Tristar. Considering the set will cost you around 20.00 bucks, consider how much time it would take you to correct this yourself, @ 20.00 dollars an hour lets say. It's worth it.
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Last edited by James Tainton; 12-28-2006 at 10:02 PM.
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  #28  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:39 AM
tamigawa tamigawa is offline
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Great work David!
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  #29  
Old 12-29-2006, 04:05 AM
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I agree with James on the roadwheels. The tamiya wheels are too narrow and have the wrong hubcaps. The tristar set would make a huge difference!
Those casted slabs look great! This will be a great dio
Jan
ps not saying you should use them, it would just be a good alternative
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  #30  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:19 PM
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Hello all,

Quote:
...the other thing is that those type of hubs that you are using were only used on and after the Panzer IV/E. For you to portray accurate Pz. IV/D road wheels, you would need to have these older, more proud hub caps.
I agree with you James on the fact that the hubcaps are a little too narrow. However this design of hubcap on an ausf D is not wrong. According my photographic references there were some cases where ausf Ds were fitted with ausf E hubcaps.

Page 41 (this one has both types of hubcaps showing that ausf E parts were sometimes used as replacements for ausf Ds. A situation quite common in Africa, were logistics in general were a problem.)


Page 11 ( Here you can see ausf E hubcaps on an ausf D. The thickness of the hubcaps, like you guys pointed they are thicker than the kit’s)



I know it is not very ethical to scan photos from books and post them here but I am sure these books are easy to find, and most of us have them anyways.
Since I already explained I’m not going for an ultra detail look on the model I won’t loose any sleep over a milliliter of thickness.

Thanks for pointing this out.

Dave
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