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James Tainton 07-04-2009 01:45 PM

Second Dragon 1/35 Heuschrecke IVb "Grasshopper" w/10.5cm leFH18 Gun
So I thought it maybe be a good time to publish these pics I took months ago, ostensibly or another "article" for the infamous Military Miniature in Review.:p
I apologize for the quality of the photographs- I went ahead without having the time or energy to get it set up better- oh well at least there is some sort of record. These photos take us through the construction of Voyager's ammo boxes. The first two attempts show me using the Voyager provided hinges, soldered on with two differing philosophies on how to go about it and the third attempt is using Aber's far superior hinges after i was found the Voyager set's were inferior.

Here is a group shot showing the planned aftermarket items to be installed into this build up.

The CMK kit for a Stug III will be scavenged for the front driver/transmission section, a detail not provided in the kit.

This is going to be soldering heaven, and here are my tools of war.

The main shell box parts cut from the brass sheet.

First I folded up one side's tiny lip with the Etchmate

Now the other side

Next I used an etching tool to emboss the strengthening crosses on a piece of MDF.

Some deformation occurred well I did this but it can all be smoothed out.

T90 07-04-2009 04:42 PM

Good luck for the rest James...I like Grasshopper and watching your project...:)

Ruud 07-04-2009 05:28 PM

It looks like the PE train has left the station and your taking up the whole darn thing. Using any of the kit part in this build ;-)


Petarted 07-04-2009 06:10 PM

nice, I have been waiting for this beast to be built

James Tainton 07-04-2009 09:16 PM

Well I'll post what I have so far- not much time these days for modelling...
Here the surface is smoothed out somewhat,

Using an old Letraset dry transfer tool to hand machine the surface smoother.

the reverse angle

the big sides can be folded without the Etchmate with your hands.

Next time- I'm going to get a manicure. You have to know- as I work in the film industry here in Vancouver- my hands get covered in all sorts of paint and material. I paint sets for movies and TV. The last gig I was on was Stargate Universe and then recently I've been working on a feature called Percy Jackson. I apologize for the horrendous look my hands have in these pics.

Here I am cutting off some hinge parts. At first I thought these would be alright- but in the end they weren't strong enough for much "hinging" if that can be a verb?

As you can see there are two types of hinge part- a male and female as it were.

Before I do any soldering the iron needs to be tinned.

steel wool

next dipping a brush into the flux paste I prepare one side of the hinge for soldering. It will have a little solder pre applied to it before it goes into position and then reheated, forming the bond.

some flux goes on the box. I shouldn't have done this this way, but you will see I devised a better method. The hinges should be attached to the doors separately from the box and then the doors added.

James Tainton 07-04-2009 10:24 PM

one part attached . Like I say I developed a better way of doing this- as will be revealed. For now, this seemed the best way.

I use a combination of heat and tweezers to slide my parts into place, one of my secrets revealed

three female parts in place

more pre-tinning of male parts...

trying out some metal rod for use as the hinge pin.

curling the male parts and the female parts into place over the rod. This is only a roughing out size- slightly larger than the final circumference that is the kit included metal.

rod removed

tightening up and checking the fit with tweezers sans rod.

here I am using the Voyager metal rod that is included - I found it to be really tough to work with, too hard to cut! I was abandoned.

Here in the upper left you can see the hinge becoming un hinged. Back to the drawing board.

James Tainton 07-05-2009 02:42 AM

Here I am adding the ammo rack to the box,first adding flux to the area to be soldered and then dropping a tiny piece of solder into the spot. This will be heated from the backside which melts the solder into the seam.

Now I've stripped the defective hinge parts off the box.
Take 2

Separating the doors from the rest of the box.

I used the other set of hinges from the set to try again-this time adding the hinge parts to the doors and box separately.

Ready for mating

This time- I used stretched sprue as a hinge pin.

A pre roll on a larger diameter brass rod. You can see the very spring and hard to cut kit wire in the for ground. See the dent? This stuff is useless- Voyager needs to give their head a shake and provide something more useful!

Cutting a piece off some stretched sprue.

The sprue pins in place.

Using the hot soldering gun to melt back the excess ends bit to for a rivet which retains the pin in place within the two opposing hinge parts.

Here I am doing a better job with some incense...

Okay- a working door, fragile but operational.

A heat sink clipped to the door. This was done so I could add the part that represents the hook part of the clasp mechanism without melting the plastic pins.

Kreighshoer 07-05-2009 03:56 AM

awesome james! simply awesome and very helpful! thanks for this detailed explanation! :thumb:

Robcio 07-05-2009 10:25 AM

Another ecsellent SBS and very helpfully for all ! Great topic for this sunday.

James Tainton 07-05-2009 12:11 PM

Positioning the tiny piece by hand onto some flux.

here you can see the clasp part also inn place and the plastic hinge pin being introduced.

Here I have started another box -this time, separating the doors right off the bat.

Box soldered up.

This time I'm going to use some ABER hinge parts- far superior in design and practical strength. Also I bought some thin brass rod from LionRoar. for the pins.

Also I am trying a tool from Griffon that is very useful in forming the hinge parts.

One way is to use tweezers- but there are different ways to get this done- even just your fingers.

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